Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to build baths from various materials. For walls, you can use foam blocks, frame insulated panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made of glued and plastic lining (the “original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and “purse thickness”.
We will not consider these modern options, we will talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested option for building a bath - from ordinary sawn timber, we use natural lining for the interior upholstery of the bath. It does not matter much which lining is an ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data, for other options the upholstery technology will have minor differences.
| wood species | Dimensions (thickness x width x length) | Extra grade, price per 1 sq.m | Grade A, price per 1 sq.m | Extra grade, price per linear meter | Grade A, price per linear meter | Illustration |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aspen | 16х96(90)х 1-3 m | 550-680 rub. | 450-580 rub. | 53-65 rub. | 48-56 rub. | |
| Linden | 16х96(90)х 1-3 m | 650-870 rub. | 550-770 rub. | 62-84 rub. | 53-74 rub. | |
| Cedar | 16х96(90)х 1-3 m | 1400-1800 rub. | 1300-1700 rub | 134-173 rubles. | 125-163 rub. | |
| Larch (lining Calm) | 14x90 (115 or 140 wide) x 2 (4, 5 or 6 meters long) | 950-1160 rub. | 770-940 rub. | - | - |
Any work requires careful preliminary preparation, the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.
Where to start work:
We note right away that there are no less important and more important operations, an inattentive or unprofessional attitude to any of them can cause rather unpleasant situations, in some cases the marriage is very difficult to fix, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.
To perform upholstery work, you will need the following tools and fixtures.
We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals, they have expensive tools and fixtures. For an ordinary summer resident, it is economically unprofitable to purchase such expensive things to perform one-time work of a small volume.
saw hand electric circular
Clapboard needs to be upholstered on the ceiling and walls, therefore, their area must be measured. There is nothing complicated, only care is needed. Based on the data obtained, a lining is purchased.
Another point - during the purchase of lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple - great, if not - then the segments should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.
| Profile | Description | Scheme |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation. |
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| Calm or Kolkhoz Woman | It differs from the previous one in rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensate. |
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| Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed. |
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| Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly. |
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| It is applied to finishing of external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation. |
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Reiki for the frame must be at least one centimeter thick, they also need to be bought with a margin, especially since they cost a penny.
Nails can be bought copper or galvanized, they are very praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times cheaper. If you expect to fasten the lining with special clamps, then you will have to buy them.
A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and rails with various antiseptics. This operation is desirable, but not required. Coniferous wood and without impregnation will forgive for decades, and over time it is better to completely change the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but gradually poisons us as well.
Aged Wood Palette - Textured Clapboard 
Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance
Surface preparation includes leveling and, if desired, additional insulation. It is not necessary to align each individual beam, align only those to which the wooden lath will be fixed.
Reiki, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.
It is better to check the evenness of the walls with a rope stretched in the corners of the bath, or an even long wooden slat. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Pull the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, check with a straight rail the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down, the depressions will level out already during the fastening of the crate. And then not all, but only those where it will be necessary to fasten the rails.
A very important point - the final result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between rails. Specific values depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and the amount of materials will increase slightly. How to make a crate? Consider the option of vertical installation of rails. It goes without saying that the electrical cables have already been laid.
In the same sequence, slats are nailed on all other surfaces.
Here it is also very important to mark the first row, check the correct position several times. It does not take much time, but it allows you to insure against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame rails, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.
If you have little practical experience, make marks on the rails for the location of the lining every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each rail with a pencil or beat off all at once with a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such marking will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.
The nails are nailed to the slats of the frame, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.
Problems can arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other, the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while laying out the wireframe. If the deviations in height are less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to cut only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be closed with a plinth, the “oblique” lining at the bottom is less noticeable - various sunbeds and other “bathing equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts, you will need to cut both the lower and upper rows. What exactly to cut off (thorn or groove) does not matter.
The lining is fixed with studs or kleimers, the studs must be driven into the spike under a flush slope, the length of the studs is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - it is long and expensive, and there is zero additional effect. The lining is never affected by pulling forces. The kleimer is fixed in the grooves, nailed to the rails. The gaps at the bottom and top are closed with skirting boards.
It is not necessary to seal the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. She has spikes much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion / shrinkage.
Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bath has not yet fully matured after laying the log house, then you will have to install a floating crate. It is easy to make, there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.
Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then securely fix it. Only with time, when experience already appears, the pace of work can be increased.
On the Internet, you can find advice from "experts" to insulate baths with mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only if the bath is built of silicate bricks.
If there are many tasks, conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood keep heat normally. And for wooden baths, foil does more harm than good - natural ventilation is disturbed with all the ensuing consequences. Unscrupulous shabashniki are engaged in such "warming" in order to rip more money from the customer
These include the installation of skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to always leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between the last row of lining and the ceiling to compensate for expansion / shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet (ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work”, there are high risks of warping.
The lining can be coated with special varnishes, stains that are resistant to difficult operating conditions, or the surfaces can be left untreated. It is undesirable to cover with varnishes, it must be remembered that absolutely all polymer resins, and it is from them that most stable varnishes are made, emit harmful chemical compounds. The harmfulness of paint and varnish coatings is determined individually in each country, the limit values of evaporation are regulated. What in some countries is strictly prohibited for use, in others is called "environmentally friendly" products. Decide for yourself whether you need a beautiful bath, or you want to have a safe steam room. What can be advised - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, grind problem areas on the lining. To varnish or not is an amateur's business.
wooden plinth
If you follow all the recommendations: do not rush, do not be lazy to double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstery of the bath with clapboard will not seem very difficult. Of course, on condition - there is a desire and hands grow from where it is necessary. Work is best done with an assistant - faster, easier, and safer. And the last thing - follow the elementary safety rules, no beautiful, clapboard upholstered bathhouse compensates for the loss of health.
The walls in the house in their area take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be taken as carefully as possible, having thought over for this both the type of facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must necessarily have an attractive appearance and be easy to maintain. The article will focus on the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.
Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and for interior work. After all, wood is a natural material that is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.
Eurolining photo
Class difference
Wood difference
The main advantages of eurolining from pine:
Of course, in addition to pine, useful properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material also differ spruce lining... But it releases sticky drops of resin during the entire period of operation. Such a board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of eurolining from spruce is much lower than for a board from pine.
So, we proceed directly to the installation of eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing a conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.
Installation of eurolining video
As you can see, eurolining is a versatile natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and quite easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.
To make the finish look attractive, it must be properly fixed.
When considering how to attach a wall paneling to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for the job. We will analyze as many as 3 ways, you need to choose the one that best suits your conditions and provides maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily do the work on your own.
We will analyze how to properly fix the lining on a wooden frame in different ways. Each of them has its own pros and cons, so read all the information below carefully.
This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades, for work we need special studs with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nails are included in the bar, most often products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the cheapest method of attachment.
Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:
Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.
It is impossible to disassemble the question of how to fix a wooden lining, and not to mention the kleimers, the so-called special staples that are placed on the spike of the elements and fixed with carnations. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and timber imitation - No. 5. Products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack, carnations are included.
Do-it-yourself instructions include the following steps:
Advice! If you want to ensure a higher fastening strength, then instead of studs, you can use self-tapping screws to fasten the clamps, the 3x20 mm option is best.
If you are thinking about how to fix the lining on the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is associated with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.
The workflow in this case looks like this:
The question is often asked, on what to fix the PVC lining, in this case all the above options will do. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.
In the world of metal, plastic and concrete, it is quite difficult to feel comfortable. It is prestigious to live in a house finished with technological materials, but the feeling of cold will haunt you.
The presence of wood in the interior will bring the missing warmth and create a natural microclimate. And if you decide to sheathe the walls with wooden slats, the issue of wall decoration and comfort is solved at the same time.
Lumber is suitable for both interior and exterior decoration. But you should not make the entire wall of the same type, relying on the decorative features of the sheathing, because the fine texture of the boards in small spaces does not look interesting. It is welcome in the form of panels, and goes well with other textures, like plaster or wallpaper. The balcony looks worthy, where such a lining is especially appropriate.
The material of natural origin is made from well-known tree species that grow everywhere.
The ennobled type "Extra" - from coniferous species and aspen, is considered elite and is suitable for interior design.
Facing boards of grade A also belong to the highest class. B and C are in demand in outdoor use. In addition to eurolining, there are also decorative types (blockhouse).
Reiki differ in length, and are presented in 4 sizes: 2 100 mm with a subsequent increase in parameters by 30 mm - 2400 etc
In general, the range allows you to choose the material in relation to the possibilities and ideas about the practicality of the cladding.
In addition to eco-friendly lining, a polymer analogue is also produced. For a particular room, suitable slats of a certain type of wood are selected, and the priority depends on the purpose of the room. So, a bath is not trimmed with pine for the reason that it reacts to high degrees by releasing resin.
For bathrooms and kitchens, plastic panels are relevant - they are beautiful in appearance, but do not pretend to be compared with the natural energy of wood.
It is not difficult to make facing if you have patience and have at least approximate skills in working with tools.
At the stage of preparation, the boards are coated with a protective compound (basic "Pinotex"). For a shade, they are treated with stain or azure (for example, Belinka), but this is already at the finishing stage.
After the process, they need to be dried well, and brought into the house a day before the start of work so that the tree does not dry out later.
The lining is installed on the crate. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.
Finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm... Initially, the frame of the structure is leveled using a level or plumb line.
The space between the battens will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. A heater is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is applied to it. Both layers not only retain heat, but make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the crate, which necessarily processed antiseptic primer.
The choice of mounting is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the spike into the recess of the board.
Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. For the version with nails, use a doboynik - this will help to completely drown the hat in the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.
If you have decided on this moment, it's time to go directly to the process. Even before the construction of the crate began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now it only follows align the guides.
If you want to lay the lining horizontally - create a visual impression wide room... With the vertical aspiration of the planks, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. Your preference.
The principle of slats arrangement starts from the ceiling with advancement to the floor with the same direction of the grooves. This will exclude the ingress of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.
A note on working with a block house clapboard that looks similar to rounded log.
It remains to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the planks, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The cladding is ready.
The layout of the lining with aspiration upwards starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the crate. The hats will then hide the inserted corner or it is permissible to bite them off with side cutters
Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and an even canvas forms an impeccably designed wall.
At the finishing stage, beautiful slats, skirting boards and corners are nailed.
Consider the option of facing directly to the surface without a wooden structure.
For fasteners, we will prepare clamps, and we will fix each 3rd carnations. The way to work with them is as follows:
Before you is a solid surface where you need to cut out a place for an outlet.
Since it was provided in advance, you took care of the cable and only covered it with cardboard for the duration of the work.
At the time of facing, its location was marked on the boards in the neighborhood. Therefore, to bring the system outside will not be much effort. Now we cut the opening with a wood cutter. We mount a box for a tree in a gaping space, and now only electrical work remains.
Decorative moments of toning are left to the last stage. Actual translucent glaze, creating a protective barrier, with a translucent structural surface.
Everything is learned in practice, and the experience gained and self-confidence will move you to other achievements in home improvement. Go ahead and let your design be unique!
The quality of lining lining largely depends on the method of fastening. Fasteners must securely hold the material, and at the same time be completely invisible. To fix the panels to the crate, self-tapping screws, clamps, screws are used, but the most practical option is nails. But the nails for lining are not ordinary, but finishing, differing in the shape of the hat and some characteristics.
So called nails with a small cylindrical cap, the diameter of which is only slightly larger than the diameter of the rod. They are designed specifically for fixing decorative finishes, as they provide a secret fastening. These nails have a small thickness, as a result of which they easily enter the wood without causing cracking. It is easy to drown a small hat in the thickness of the material with the help of a finisher.
In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher
The rods of such hardware are smooth, with notches in the upper part, from 20 to 90 mm long. The hat has an oval shape, and its height corresponds to the diameter of the rod. The diameter of the hat itself varies from 1.6 to 3.4 mm. The material for the manufacture of fasteners is low-carbon steel, and anti-corrosion compounds are used as a protective coating.
Unlike simple building nails, finish nails are not designed for high loads, since finishing materials are usually light in weight. They can only be used in structures that are not subject to shrinkage and mechanical stress on bending or tearing. It is also undesirable to use them for temporary coatings: not a single tool makes it possible to pick up and pull out a nail because of a small cap sunk into a tree. For the same reason, they cannot be reused.
Finishing nails are used not only for fastening lining, their scope is quite wide:
Some masters use them when laying parquet and laminate when you need to fix the planks, but since flooring is subject to constant mechanical stress, ordinary nails are more suitable here.
The main criterion when choosing nails is the type of protective coating. Not only the appearance depends on this, but also the durability, as well as the cost of fasteners.
| Type of nails | Description | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Steel nails without protective coating. They are the most inexpensive, but prone to corrosion. | For use in dry areas only. |
| Covered with a thin layer of zinc 6 microns thick. This is the most popular type of nails, because at a low cost it is highly resistant to corrosion. | Suitable for finishing all types of residential and industrial premises, as well as structures that are not exposed to direct contact with moisture |
| Copper plating provides excellent corrosion resistance. Products have a characteristic reddish tint | Used when decorating rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, baths, dressing rooms, open balconies and terraces |
| Products covered with brass are absolutely not subject to corrosion and have high aesthetic properties. They have a spectacular golden hue and are distinguished by the highest price. | They can be used in any conditions, but due to their cost, they are most often used when finishing with expensive materials, where the main emphasis is on decorative and aesthetic appearance of coatings. |
| They have excellent anti-corrosion properties, have a pleasant silver-mirror sheen. | They are used when fastening trims, coatings with increased requirements for decorativeness, as well as when assembling furniture. |
| Bronze-coated nails are not subject to corrosion, and due to the dark color with a greenish tint, they become completely invisible in the wood. Differ in big weight, in comparison with other types, and rather high price | Used for finishing wet rooms, open terraces, balconies, door and window openings |
In order to drown the nail head and at the same time not damage the finishing material, it is necessary to choose the right working tool. Most craftsmen use a doboynik - a metal rod of a conical shape.
Its working end has a small diameter, so when driving it only touches the nail head and does not cling to the wood. There are two types of killers:
The top edge of the tool is wide and flat, specially designed for hammer blows. The doboynik is very simple to use: the end of the rod is placed on a protruding hat perpendicular to the surface, the tool is held in this position with one hand, and the second is beaten from above with a hammer along the wide part. As a rule, 1-2 blows are enough to sink the hat a couple of millimeters into the tree.
Advice. In the absence of a doboynik, it can be replaced with a large construction nail or center punch. To do this, the lower end of the product is slightly grinded off or cut off with a grinder so that it does not slip off the hardware head. A large bolt will also work: it must be turned on a lathe so that the diameter of the rod matches the diameter of the nail head or is slightly smaller.
If the amount of work is large, it is very convenient to use another tool - a pneumatic nail gun. It is also called nailer and nail gun.
There are special finishing nailers of various calibers, designed for a certain size of nails.
Such a tool is quite expensive, but it has great advantages:
The disadvantages include the need for a compressor and binding to an energy source.
Air nailer - application
The main installation process and the location of the lining panels do not depend on the choice of fasteners, but there are certain differences in the method of fastening itself. In order for the coating to have an aesthetic appearance and remain durable throughout the entire service life, you should not only correctly select nails, but also know how to hammer them correctly. Let's consider the technology of plating in detail.
Nails should be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the finish. For living rooms and a kitchen, a closed balcony, galvanized nails are suitable; for a bathroom or a bath, it is better to take chrome-plated or copper-plated ones. If the lining is expensive, made of exotic wood, then the nails should be appropriate - coated with copper or brass. As for the length of the nail, it should be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the attached material. Most often, finishing nails 50-60 mm long are used to fasten the lining.
But when assembling the crate, it is necessary to use construction nails, which will provide the structure with the necessary strength. Again, when choosing, consider the effect of moisture - for rooms with high humidity, take only galvanized fasteners. If the walls are not wooden, but brick or concrete, the battens are fastened to the base with dowels.
It is impossible to fasten the lining directly to the wall: over time, the shrinkage of the base can cause deformation of the coating, and the accumulation of moisture between the wall and the sheathing will lead to premature destruction of the material. For this reason, a crate is necessarily mounted, and the best option for its manufacture is slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm or a beam of 50x50 mm.
Lumber must be smooth, dry and without visible defects. Before installation, the wood must be treated with antiseptic impregnation and dried.
First you need to remove all rotten cladding boards from the facade, dismantle the drainage system, remove shutters, trim and other elements that will interfere with the installation of the battens and lining. Installation starts from the bottom.
Step 1. Before starting work, dismantle the gutter system, shutters and loose boards
It is recommended to stretch the line to make it easier to level the plane of the crate. Next, attach intermediate bars to the wall in increments of 49 cm. The beam is fixed every 40-50 cm, and 1.5-2 cm recede from the ends. All guides must be located strictly in the same horizontal plane, otherwise the lining will not lie flat.
Advice. The lining panels should be perpendicular to the crate. That is, for horizontal sheathing, the frame guides are installed vertically, and vice versa.
Sheathing panels can be mounted both from the bottom up and from the top down. The first method is more convenient, but very often the top panel has to be cut, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. If you do not plan to close the joint at the top with a decorative plinth, installation is recommended from top to bottom.
Step 1. They take the first board, apply it to the bottom of the crate so that the comb is pointing up and the groove, respectively, down. A small gap must be left between the lining and the floor covering to compensate for thermal expansion.
Step 2 A nail at an angle is attached to the base of the ridge at the level of the crate and driven in with a hammer. Next, they take a doboynik and with accurate accurate blows they sink the hat in the tree. In the same way, fix the panel to other guides.
Nail gun
Step 3 Take the second board, apply it with a groove to the crest of the first board and lightly press from above so that it falls into place. They check the level of the horizontal, if necessary, they also knock it out with a hammer through a special board - padding, so as not to damage the lock of the lining. Next, fix with nails to the guides of the frame. In the same way, the skin is fixed to the very top.
If the installation is carried out from top to bottom, the nail is hammered at an angle into the groove of the first board, be sure to sink the head with a hammer. After that, the second board is inserted with a comb into the groove and knocked so that it fits snugly into place.
With a vertical arrangement, the first board is applied to the crate with a crest in the corner. The nail is inserted into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees so that it falls in the middle of the crate beam. They hammer with not too strong blows so that the tree does not split, they drown the hat with the help of a hammer. The board must be fixed along its entire length.
It is very important to sink the nail heads well, otherwise they will interfere with the tight fit of the panels to each other. During the installation process, each panel is controlled by the level, and, if necessary, knocked out with a hammer. If you do not notice the skew in time, then it will be difficult to correct the defect - you will have to tear off the fixed panels and mount them again. Sheathing should be dense, without gaps and cracks between the boards.
Screwdrivers
This method allows you to fix the lining without damaging the wood and the risk of cracking. Installation is quite simple.
Step 1. The board is applied to the crate and leveled.
Step 2 A kleimer is inserted into the groove of the crate beam.
Step 3 With finishing nails through special holes, the kleimer is attached to the beam.
Step 4. Put on and fasten the rest of the kleimers, fixing the board along the entire length. Observe the interval between fasteners 50-60 cm.
Step 5 They take the next board, insert its crest into the groove of the previous one and fix it in the same way.
Step 6 Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level to prevent the coating from skewing. If necessary, such a casing can be easily dismantled and installed in another place.
