In most cases, in order to enjoy such yummy as, people go to the market or supermarket to get them. However, no one guarantees that the product will not harm your health. It is this fact that makes many think about how to start growing these crops little by little right in their summer cottage or house adjoining area. How does this differ from planting and caring for berries such as currants, raspberries or Victoria? If you start doing this, you will understand that it is no more difficult than growing tomatoes.
The soil for growing watermelons and melons should be sandy and well warmed, at least 26 C and protected from strong winds.
Watermelons, as not many people know, come in completely different flavors, shapes, colors and sizes. It is invariable that the taste qualities of self-grown watermelons are always on top. These berries are sown no later than mid-April, especially in those regions where it is very cold, for example, in the Perm region, Yakutia. From germination to planting should take about 20 days. They should have two cotyledons and two complete leaves. Watermelon has different varieties, but not all of them are known to residents of regions remote from the center of Russia, especially in the north. So, for example, there are green watermelons with yellow flesh, on the contrary, yellow watermelons with red flesh, elongated large varieties and even square watermelons bred by the Japanese. So, how to plant, pinch and so that they grow tasty and big?
Watermelon seeds are soaked and planted in the ground in mid-April at a temperature of 25-30 C.
Soak the seeds, as already mentioned, around mid-April. Although some varieties are described in such a way that they can be sown at the end of April, this only applies to those regions where spring and summer come early enough. In other regions, there may be a shutdown of central heating even before the seeds can be transplanted into open ground. The planting depth of melons should be no more than 1.5 cm, and watermelons - a little deeper, about 2 cm. Germination occurs only at a maintained constant temperature of at least 25-30 degrees.
Heat-loving gourds prefer to grow in southern latitudes, where it is hot and dry. But this does not mean at all that such a culture cannot be grown in our area - the main thing is worthy care and attention to plants. And yet - a timely pinch of watermelons so that the set berries are large. Interesting? Then read on!
Do I need to pinch watermelons? Definitely yes! For melons, this procedure is almost identical to pinching other crops. Pinching allows future watermelons to grow larger and sweeter. It is noteworthy that the formation of watermelons is not at all a mandatory procedure if you grow watermelons in a greenhouse. It is necessary if the culture grows in open beds, and even more so in the cold northern regions.
Some farmers believe that pinching watermelons is a procedure that only harms the crop. Actually it is not. If you cut the lashes correctly, then the quality of the future harvest can only be improved. For example, it must be remembered that berries form only on the main stem, and all secondary stepchildren can be safely removed. And then, you should not leave more than 4 ovaries on the plant, otherwise all the berries will be small.
As soon as a sufficient number of fruits have formed, cut the lash so that only a few leaves remain above the ovary. But that's not all. Weekly, the main shoot will produce new lateral tendrils, the removal of which is a mandatory procedure in order for the fruits to grow to the proper size.
In order not to harm the future harvest, it is important to know how to pinch watermelons correctly:
If we talk about how to pinch a watermelon, you should consider all the possible methods often used by gardeners:
The formation of a watermelon should be carried out on a dry sunny day - then the cut point will dry out quickly and no damage will be done to the plant.
If the weather is wet, rot may develop at the cut point, which will necessarily affect the condition of the bush in an unfavorable way.
To know how to pinch a watermelon correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the features of the process:
So, the scheme for pinching watermelons is quite simple, the main thing is to follow the generally accepted rules and prevent arbitrary growth of the bush. We hope that we have fully answered the question “how to pinch watermelons correctly”, and now the process of growing this melon crop will not be difficult for you. Good luck in the difficult business of growing melons and gourds - it is difficult, but very pleasant and profitable! Just a little effort - and now you are already treating your neighbors with your own grown, sweet and crunchy watermelons, accepting well-deserved compliments to your farming talent. Or maybe you prefer salted berries? You choose!
In this video you will hear useful tips for shaping watermelons.
Watermelons need not only the formation of bushes, but also the rationing of the crop. Without these two techniques, you will not grow large and sugary fruits. Most likely, there will be many small and tasteless ones.
Watermelons have unlimited lash growth. If you do not pinch them, then fruits will form along the entire trunk and on the side shoots. The lashes grow further, the bush spends energy both on their development and on the formation of more and more new fruits. As a result, we will get long stems and many small watermelons on them. In the conditions of Africa and Australia, of course, they will ripen, but not in our extreme climate.
Wild watermelons grow in Australia and southern Africa
By forming, we stop the excessive growth of shoots, and by rationing, we leave only a few fruits on the bush. The plant will direct all its forces to their cultivation and maturation. It turns out that the bush itself, without any pinching, tends to become wild. And only under the supervision of a skilled gardener does it turn into a cultivated and productive plant.
To determine the timing of pinching the lashes and removing unnecessary stepchildren, first select the formation scheme. There are several. Watermelons are grown in one, two, three stems. The method depends on the variety, region and place of cultivation: in a greenhouse or open field. If you bought seeds of several varieties and hybrids, then, perhaps, each will need its own formation technology, it must be done within a certain time frame and often in several stages.
In most cases, lash pinching is done over an ovary that has grown to the size of an apple.
A feature of growing in a greenhouse is the ability to tie watermelon lashes to a trellis. Therefore, the plants are planted thicker. Bushes form in one or two stems. Hybrids are often grown indoors. Most of them give very large fruits, but to make sure of this, you need to correctly perform the formation and normalization.
This simplest method is suitable for both varieties and hybrids. The main whip is directed up the rope. All side shoots are removed. The fruits are tied on the main stem. Of these, 1-4 are left, depending on the region and the size of the watermelons, the rest are removed. The main lash is pinched, stepping back from the top fruit of 5 sheets.
In Siberia and the northern regions, only one watermelon weighing 7–10 kg will have time to ripen on one lash, and in the south of the Russian Federation - 2–3. If it is a small-fruited variety, then more ovaries are left. The number of berries that have time to ripen over the summer is individual for each variety and region. You will have to find this out by experience. The information on the seed packet may help.
A more time-consuming method, since you need to monitor the growing stepchildren and recognize which flowers grow on them, then wait for the ovaries and pinch. However, it is with this technology that many varieties bear fruit well. Unlike hybrids, their fruits are quickly tied on lateral shoots.
Watermelons set fruits on both the main stem and side shoots.
Stages of formation:
Schemes for the formation of watermelons, including in one stem (with and without stepchildren)
Do not pinch the lashes before making sure that the ovaries are growing. Small walnut-sized watermelons often dry up and fall off.
In the open field, watermelons are grown in spreading. At the same time, the lashes are intertwined, it is impossible to keep track of each stepson and flower. Therefore, on melons, the formation is minimized or pinched at the very beginning so that a compact bush grows.
When growing in spreading, the formation begins when the watermelons grow in diameter up to 5–7 cm
According to this technology, watermelons are allowed to grow freely. Pinch only the tops of the lashes that go beyond the melon. Formation begins when several fruits the size of an apple appear. From each such fruit, 5 sheets recede and pinch. All other fruits are harvested, shoots without fruits are cut off at the stem. In this case, the cut sections are left to lie in place. By pulling them out, you can damage the lashes left for fruiting.
In the thickets of melons, you can overlook something. Therefore, a month before the onset of cold nights in the region (below +15 ⁰C), approximately in mid-late July, they visit the garden bed to form it again and pinch all the visible tops of the lashes.
Scientists have found that watermelons, formed on third-order shoots, grow and ripen faster than others. The technology is recommended for northern regions with short summers.
Scheme of the formation of watermelon to obtain a crop on the shoots of the third order
Some gardeners in Siberia grow large watermelons in a very simple way, which has already been mentioned. They leave one lash and one watermelon in the bush, which tied on it first. The stem is pinched after 5 sheets from it, and all side shoots, flowers and ovaries are also removed. They say it's easier to grow 30 bushes with one watermelon than to plant 10 and constantly pinch them to grow the same 30 berries. In addition, not in every locality the third watermelon ripens, but one at a time they sing quickly.
For the successful cultivation of watermelons, several agricultural practices are used, one of which is pinching. Consider in the article how to pinch a watermelon and why you need to do it.
Watermelons are heat-loving plants, so a greenhouse is the best option for growing. But in a suitable climatic zone, watermelons are grown in open ground. To warm the soil before sowing seeds, grass is used, which covers the soil. Read also the article: → "The timing of sowing seeds for seedlings."
After the sprouts come off and three leaves appear on them, the plants are thinned out, one or two sprouts are left in the hole
When planting seedlings in the holes, it is not advisable to put overripe manure. Fertilizers should be applied in the fall. The main stem is the basis of the culture, it is handled with care, especially if seedlings are transplanted from the greenhouse into open ground. Stepchildren are cut off so as not to injure the stem. In order not to waste the forces of culture, the leaves are also cut off, on average, up to seven pieces are left. The amount of fruit that is left on the stems depends on the variety of watermelon. The ovary appears on the 30th day.
Council number 1. When pinching, you need to leave only the best loops and leaves. Enough leaves are left on the stem to avoid wilting of the shoots.
Growing watermelons in greenhouse conditions has its own characteristics. Despite the lack of sunlight and constant access to air, the plant grows quickly and bears fruit. Preference is given to pollinated varieties of watermelons, because it is difficult to pollinate manually on open ground. On cold nights, plants are covered with foil.
In open ground, the culture grows up to five meters.
A greenhouse is built with a height of more than two meters, otherwise cultivation is impossible. After the formation of the first lashes, the culture is tied to the trellis. Their height depends on the variety of watermelon and the growing season. Watermelons are planted around the perimeter of the greenhouse, trellises in the form of an arch are installed from one wall to another. When growing, the main stem is left, all loops on which there is no ovary are removed. Shoots with fruits are pinched weekly, leaving up to 6 ovaries.
Particular attention is paid to tying. The procedure is needed when the length of the shoots reaches 1 m. At 0.5 m from the root, the lash is placed on the ground and sprinkled with earth. This is necessary to strengthen the root system and additional nutrition.
For greenhouse conditions, self-pollinating varieties are chosen. Otherwise, the greenhouse is opened for access to bees. At night, the greenhouse is closed so that cold air does not enter. In the spring, heat accumulators are installed to prevent freezing of seedlings. Warm water bottles will do.
With artificial pollination, the male flower is torn off and the female crops are pollinated. The procedure is carried out when the fruits reach the size of an apple. During this period, crops are watered for growth and development. So that the shoots do not intertwine and do not break from the weight of the fruit, the stems are tied up. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of tying methods in the table.
| Method name | The essence of the method | Advantages | disadvantages |
| Hanging in nets | Apple-sized fruits are placed in nets that are attached to trellises. | 1. Grids are used several times. 2. Fruits do not rot and are not affected by fungal diseases. 3. The fruits ripen evenly and are warmed by the sun from all sides. |
There is no need to build massive, strong trellises to support the weight of the fruit. |
| Tying by hand | The fruits are tied by hand to the trellis as they grow. | The fruits do not rot and ripen well. | 1. There is a risk of damage to the stem if tied incorrectly. 2. The procedure takes a long time. |
| Using coasters | Fruits are not tied to trellises; special stands are made of wood or plastic for them. | 1. No need for capital structures. 2. The fruits lie down on the stands, and the whips will stretch up, so the watermelons are easy to inspect. |
Long lashes create a shadow and interfere with full lighting. |
It is not necessary to buy special nets, even clothes are used. Stockings, nylon tights and fishnet T-shirts will do. When designing trellises, you can show your imagination and make shelves on which the fruits will lie. Cabinets will do.
See the infographic below for the rules for pinching a watermelon.
(click to enlarge)
Before pinching, it is necessary to study the whole process so as not to harm the crop. Pinching recommendations:
If, after pinching, there are few leaves left on the culture, then pinch the shoot that is above the fruit. This encourages the growth of new leaves. Lateral branches, on which there is no ovary, are removed at the root collar so as not to take away the culture's strength for the formation and ripening of fruits.
With proper pinching, the fruits grow to such sizes.
Pinching is carried out in accordance with the crop variety and growing region. Be sure to carry out the procedure for large varieties, such as Astrakhan. The table shows the varieties and features of their pinching:
We offer step-by-step instructions for this procedure:
Council number 2. The bush is inspected weekly and the side stems are removed, otherwise the fruits will not reach the desired size.
The pinching technology differs depending on the crop variety, conditions and climatic zone of cultivation. Select the appropriate method experimentally. When growing watermelons for the first time, several plants are planted and pinched in different ways. According to the harvest at the end of the season, conclusions are drawn which method turned out to be the best.
There are three types of pinching. Let's consider each separately.
The formation of the ovary is an important step that cannot be skipped when pinching.
Two fruits are left on each lash. The top is pinched at a distance of three leaves. All excess layering with the ovary is removed with scissors. The third method is popular among gardeners, because they get the maximum yield due to the branching of the bush. A sufficient number of leaves contributes to the nutrition of the culture and prevents drying.
Pinching and pruning of shoots is carried out on warm and sunny days, in which case the pruning sites will dry out quickly. In wet weather, rot is formed, and the likelihood of plant disease increases.
After the first procedure, you need to inspect the culture weekly and, if necessary, pinch it. Only two shoots are left from the center of the bush, on which up to four fruits are formed. After the appearance of additional processes, they are immediately torn off. Otherwise, they take on all the forces of culture, and the fruits do not have enough time for full growth.
Council number 3. Each bush at the root is covered with a tree or bottles of warm water.
Wooden boxes or straw are placed under watermelons so that they do not rot.
When growing in a greenhouse, bees must be provided with access to the culture, otherwise pollination will be impossible. Also use the method of manual pollination. The fruits appear within a month. Flowers appear depending on the variety of watermelon. In early varieties, they are located between the 4th and 11th leaflet, in later varieties, between the 20th and 25th.
Care during flowering and fruit formation is as follows:
Harvest after drying the tip of the loop. Watermelons love abundant watering, but when the fruits ripen, watering is limited. With temperature drops up to 15 degrees, the melon is covered with a film.
Question number 1. How many times do you pinch a watermelon?
It depends on the variety of culture, at least for the season the procedure is done twice.
Question number 2. During pinching, I injured the main stem, what will happen now?
Unlike melons, in watermelons, fruits are formed on the main stem, if it is injured, then there will be no harvest. When the first fruits grow to the size of a walnut, the vines are cut out so that the fruits form on the second leaf.
Question number 3. Why is pinching necessary?
With the help of this procedure, fruits of maximum sizes are grown, and pinching helps to accelerate ripening, increases the juiciness and sweetness of the watermelon.
Question number 4. Is it possible to do without pinching?
To grow large and juicy fruits, an integrated approach is needed, one fertilizer and watering is not enough. If you grow watermelons in a greenhouse, then you can not do pinching, but the stems are tied up. For a crop that grows in open ground, pinching is indispensable.
Growing watermelons in a greenhouse requires pinching and tying.
Question number 5. How to determine when to start and stop pinching?
The procedure is started when the first secondary shoots appear, this prevents the plant from weakening and promotes growth. Stop pinching as the fruit grows, because the plant is gaining strength. It is advisable to pinch the shoot over the fruit.
We offer a solution to the problems that arise when growing watermelons:
If you decide to grow watermelons on your property, it is natural that you may have a lot of questions about how to care for them in order to ensure they are properly cared for. In this article, we will consider one of the important points in the care of melons - about why and how to pinch watermelons.
The main purpose of this important procedure is to increase and improve yields. It must be done in a timely and correct manner.
Pinching watermelons affects the rate of fruit ripening and its taste characteristics. After this procedure, the berry becomes sweeter, juicier, ripens faster. The essence of the procedure is the formation of the plant, the direction of its forces to the development of fruits. This procedure is similar to pinching other crops.
The need for pinching depends on where and in what climatic conditions you are going to grow watermelons. For the northern regions, it is imperative to pinch, otherwise the watermelons will not have time to fully ripen. The procedure is optional if the plants are planted in a greenhouse.
There are several methods of pinching used by gardeners.
All procedures for removing excess shoots are recommended to be carried out in clear weather, then the cut wattle fences will dry out quickly. If you are going to form plants in rainy weather, then rot may appear at the cut points, which is often a disease of the whole plant.
When the fruits reach the size of a goose egg, they are set with the stalk up.
To avoid mistakes, keep in mind that the stepchildren, which must be pinched at the very base, are located between the leaves and the main shoot.
All manipulations must be carried out with great care - the culture reacts negatively to turning the whip over and, moreover, trampling it with your feet.
These recommendations for the formation of plants are not strict and exhaustive. If you decide to grow watermelons for the first time, then you can experiment. For this purpose, you can plant several plants and pinch them in different ways. Next time you can use the method that gave the best results.
Do not be afraid to pinch watermelons, if this procedure is carried out correctly, it will not harm the plant, on the contrary, it will help to get a rich and high-quality harvest. Pinching is one of the main secrets in the proper care of watermelons.
In most cases, in order to enjoy such yummy things as melon or watermelon, people go to the market or supermarket to get them. However, no one guarantees that the product will not harm your health. It is this fact that makes many think about how to start growing these crops little by little right in their summer cottage or house adjoining area. How does this differ from planting and caring for berries such as currants, raspberries or Victoria? If you start doing this, you will understand that it is no more difficult than growing tomatoes.
The soil for growing watermelons and melons should be sandy and well warmed, at least 26 C and protected from strong winds.
Watermelons, as not many people know, come in completely different flavors, shapes, colors and sizes. It is invariable that the taste qualities of self-grown watermelons are always on top. These berries are sown no later than mid-April, especially in those regions where it is very cold, for example, in the Perm region, Yakutia. From germination to planting should take about 20 days. They should have two cotyledons and two complete leaves. Watermelon has different varieties, but not all of them are known to residents of regions remote from the center of Russia, especially in the north. So, for example, there are green watermelons with yellow flesh, on the contrary, yellow watermelons with red flesh, elongated large varieties and even square watermelons bred by the Japanese. So, how to plant, pinch and water watermelons and melons so that they grow tasty and big?
Watermelon seeds are soaked and planted in the ground in mid-April at a temperature of 25-30 C.
Soak the seeds, as already mentioned, around mid-April. Although some varieties are described in such a way that they can be sown at the end of April, this only applies to those regions where spring and summer come early enough. In other regions, there may be a shutdown of central heating even before the seeds can be transplanted into open ground. The planting depth of melons should be no more than 1.5 cm, and watermelons - a little deeper, about 2 cm. Germination occurs only at a maintained constant temperature of at least 25-30 degrees.
It must be remembered that it is desirable to grow seedlings exclusively on the south side, so make a bed on the sunny side in the garden. Consider the direction of the wind, try to hide weak sprouts from strong gusts. And a month before you plan to harvest, you need to stop watering. This is especially true for those regions where there is increased rainfall and humidity.
If these rules are not followed, then the watermelon may grow up to 15 kg, but at the same time it will not have taste and the fruits will be too watery.
From the very first day, watermelon from seedlings is tied in almost 30 days, but a lot depends on the variety. Each fruit is matte at first, and then it stops growing and begins to shine. This means that the watermelon is ripening. When this shine appears and you need to stop watering, and exactly in a month on the beds you can hear how the fruits begin to shoot, respectively, these watermelons can be considered ripe.
Melon seeds are planted to a depth of 1.5 cm, watermelon - to a depth of 2 cm.
When growing such exotics, it must be remembered that watermelons are heat-loving plants; without it, they will not grow. What should be done? Organize warm beds. To do this, do the following. Dig a hole about half a meter in two bayonets of a shovel. At the bottom of this small pit, lay out plastic bottles that will not let the cold into this area. Bury them, after which you can grow watermelons and melons on this site. They can also be grown in a greenhouse.
Compacted grass is also used to warm the soil. In order for it to warm up, cover it in the upper part of the soil, cover it with some material. While the grass is warming up, prepare the soil. In any case, do not plant watermelons and melons on a dunghill. These conditions are very unpleasant for them. It is better in these cases to use sandy soil in the upper soil layer.
The ovary of a watermelon occurs approximately 30 days after planting in open ground.
The formation of a watermelon occurs as follows. The main stem is the base, so it cannot be injured. Only stepchildren are plucked. For large fruit varieties, you need to leave 4, maximum 5 fruits. If they are small, then you can even leave 6 rudiments on a bush. Therefore, the maximum number of leaves is 7 pieces. Keep the best ones and pinch the rest. One plant will need to leave 1-2 shoots. But it grows normally and even when there are 7 or 8 of them on it. Therefore, for the experiment, you can leave more shoots on one of the bushes. Between the leaf and the main stem is a stepson, as on tomatoes or cucumbers.
Both watermelons and melons can be grown in greenhouses, but remember that all plants must be pollinated. Therefore, provide access to your greenhouse for bees. Many grow watermelons outdoors, but under cover on cold nights and chilly days. Even if it’s warm in the greenhouse, then when spring frosts or summer “matinees” come, it’s better, after all, as soon as the fruit appears and begins to grow, carefully place heat accumulators in the greenhouse (for example, a lot of plastic transparent water bottles or a simple barrel). Some use wooden boxes for this purpose, which are put directly on the fruit.
At the same time, watermelons will not rot and will always be warm. The size of a berry for pollination should be about the size of an apple. If the summer and spring are wet, then pollination does not occur. In this case, you will need to pluck the male flower and pollinate the female plant. Watermelons require fairly frequent watering, otherwise they stop developing and growing. You can use drip irrigation for this. When the berries begin to grow, carefully tie the stems with any available fasteners, otherwise they may break or dry out under the weight of the fruit.
Pollination of watermelons and melons occurs naturally. But in a greenhouse, due to humidity, this may not happen, then a male flower is taken and pollinated by hand.
The most important thing is to pinch them once a week. Stems come from the center of the bush, from which only 2 should be left. No more than 2-4 fruits are left on one bush. If there is another shoot or several of them, then it is better to tear them all off, otherwise the fruits that you leave will not grow enough, as they will not have enough food and time to grow. Don't forget to attach a piece of wood under the fruit. You can cover the ground at the root with material or bottles of warm water.
Many who have dealt with both watermelons and melons find that growing melons is much easier. Varieties of melons are as varied as those of watermelons. Among them are especially distinguished: Honey, Fairy Tale, Iroquois, Caramel. Professionals advise to start with the Scythian Gold. In no case do not grow Kolkhoznitsa melon, as it is a fodder melon that is completely tasteless. Melon can be eaten already when it starts to smell.
Agricultural machinery and equipment for melon is the same as for watermelon. The only difference between this melon culture is that they grow only on lateral shoots. Therefore, as soon as the bush grows to four leaves of seedlings, be sure to pinch it. Melon grows for about 60 days. If you don't pinch it and let it grow where it wants to, you'll have a huge amount of foliage in your garden and no melons. You can let the melon bush grow up to the fourth leaf, but only as a last resort. And on the side shoots, subject to the above conditions, you will see a huge number of fruits. But you still need to leave no more than 6 pieces on one bush.
Scheme of the formation of fruits of melon and watermelon.
Seedling bushes are planted about half a meter apart. It is in such conditions that they grow well. Do not forget to put any substrate under the fruits before ripening. This is necessary so that the melons do not absorb moisture from the soil. If you are growing melons in a greenhouse, then they need to be tied in the same way as watermelons. After the fruit reaches the size you need, stop watering. Here, too, one should not get carried away with manure, because if there is too much nitrogen, this will lead to too long lashes. The soil, as for watermelons, should be sandy and warm (at least 26 degrees). Do not forget about the need to protect plants from strong winds.
Watermelons, like peppers, do not like transplants, so it is recommended to sow them in peat tablets or pots. And then you can just plant them in a permanent place without any harm to the plant. But this is done when a normal, full-fledged sheet has appeared on it. Unlike melons, watermelon fruits are formed on the main stem. When the first fruits are about the size of a walnut, the vines need to be cut to ensure fruit formation on the second leaf. Leaves should be left in sufficient quantity for the growth of the remaining fruits. Barren side branches are removed directly on the root collar.
Growing heat-loving crops in a summer cottage is not such a difficult matter, if you understand their features, requirements and capabilities. If in the southern regions you can sow melons with watermelons and melons and calmly wait until the hot sun and rare warm rains do their job, then in the middle latitudes you have to conjure over each bush. But you can grow them even in open ground.
How to pinch watermelons and melons and why you need to do it - let's figure it out in more detail.
For such gourds as melons and watermelons, pinching is the same as pinching for tomatoes. This is necessary, first of all, for the earlier formation of ovaries. But, unlike tomatoes, from each bush of which we want to get as much harvest as possible, in this case the task is different: there should be fewer fruits, but they should grow large and sweet.
In the climatic conditions of the middle lane, one watermelon plant is able to ensure fruit ripening up to 5 kg! Thus, if you save 2-3 pollinated ovaries on different lashes, you can get two-kilogram specimens.
The principle of the formation of female ovaries in these two cultures is fundamentally different, so they require a fundamentally different approach. In watermelons, they are formed on the central lash and lateral shoots, and in melons - exclusively on lateral shoots. Our task is to stimulate the growth of precisely these necessary areas, providing them with nutrition and not giving it away in vain in the ovaries, which still do not have time to form into ripe fruits. Therefore, the schemes for pinching watermelons and melons will be different.
In this melon culture, female flowers, as already mentioned, are formed both on the main stem and on the side lashes. They form at the base of the plant on their own, no pinching of the main stem is required for this! It is necessary to leave a maximum of three lashes, and cut off the rest. In this case, the load with ovaries should be as follows: one shoot - one fruit. You need to leave the one closest to the root, delete all the rest.
You should not get carried away with pruning, since the leaves and the total green mass are necessary for every plant for a full life.
After molding is done, young shoots can form on the plant. You can no longer pinch them to ensure intensive growth of the entire bush, but be sure to remove the ovaries. When the green mass thickens, the weakest lashes are removed.
Melons, as mentioned above, bear fruit exclusively on lateral shoots, so the central lash must be cut with garden shears immediately above the 5-6th leaf (to get at least three layers). Just at this time, side shoots begin to appear, and you can determine where they will form. After pruning, they will actively grow. On each of them, you need to leave one ovary, that is, the first three fruits that form on the entire bush (but always on different lashes), and remove the rest of the ovaries.
Further actions depend on the variety of melon. If this is early ripening, you can cut nothing else, but only remove the ovaries. In the case of late-ripening varieties, it will be necessary to periodically repeat pinching on young layers, leaving 5-6 leaves for the vegetative green mass and stimulating overall growth (except for the shoots on which the fruits are left). It is enough to carry out further pinching of fresh ovaries and melon shoots once a week.
Some varieties with a fairly hot summer can produce 5-6 melons, but all experiments are already a matter of experience.
If the shoots, on which the main hope is placed, for some reason turned out to be more frail and did not give viable ovaries, you should not waste time and effort on bringing them back to a full life. It is better to remove them, and pay attention to the following, located further from the root.
According to experienced gardeners, growing melons in a cool region is easier than watermelons, and they ripen larger and sweeter. Therefore, for those who are just starting to master the cultivation of exotic crops for their region, it is better to start with them.
These recommendations relate mainly to the agricultural technology of heat-loving melons in open ground. The question of how to properly pinch watermelons and melons in a greenhouse is decided depending on the temperature regime, soil fertility, etc. In protected ground conditions, both of them are able to give a more significant harvest than in the open.
In addition to forming the ground part, the development of the root system can also be adjusted. The fact is that, adapted to a hot climate, gourds are used to extracting water, taking roots deep into the ground. But the shallow occurrence of groundwater in more northern regions leads to the fact that, having quickly reached the aquifer, they begin to rot. Of course, we don’t have the opportunity to pinch the roots of a watermelon, like shoots, but we can make them grow not in depth, but in breadth. To do this, not holes at the root are used for irrigation, but furrows that are laid between the rows. Thus, watering occurs to the side, and a superficial root system is formed.
Melons do not like abundant moisture! Watering should only be done during dry periods. At the same time, the next day, the soil must be loosened and mulched superficially to avoid the formation of a soil crust.
Growing heat-loving watermelons requires certain agrotechnical knowledge. Not only beginners, but also often already experienced gardeners make mistakes in caring for the crop, which affects the quality and quantity of the crop. In order for the berry to be quite large and sweet, it is necessary to properly care for the bush even in the first stages of its growth. How best and correctly to do this - we will consider further.
In truth, this may be the most common question about pinching watermelons. People are very worried about the difficulties that may arise during the cultivation of something. The most interesting thing is that experienced gardeners are confident that growing watermelons correctly is no more difficult than the same cucumbers or tomatoes.
Watermelon is an unusual, exotic berry, and was brought to our region a very long time ago. For growth, he needs either open ground or a good greenhouse with natural conditions.
The process of growing watermelon is characterized by all the same features as with other cultivated plants, but there is one feature - pinching. What is it?
From a technical point of view, this is something like pinching ordinary seedlings, like pepper, tomato, corn, and so on. The task is to make life easier for a fruitful plant, so that the berry ripens faster, gains more juice and sweetness.
It is also interesting that in greenhouse conditions this procedure can be skipped, while in the northern regions of the country pinching is a mandatory procedure when growing watermelon.
After pinching, the plant loses its excess green mass, which under normal conditions only draws additional moisture, which slows down the process of growth and ripening of the fruit.
Usually, after this, up to three ovaries are left, on which future fruits will grow, and excess shoots are removed so as not to create an additional load on the plant.
The growth of watermelon lashes can continue as long as it is warm and there is enough moisture, and many ovaries and side shoots will form. With a short warm season in the regions of the Russian middle zone, they will not be able to ripen or there will be many small and tasteless berries. When growing seedlings, it is necessary to stop the tops of the main stems so that the tops do not grow excessively high and the plant forces are directed to the ripening of berries.
There are three main schemes for the formation of a bush:
· with one whip;
three lashes.
How to pinch watermelons and melons depends on the climatic features of the area and the variety of berries, as well as the method of cultivation: in a greenhouse or open land.
How to form watermelons in open ground also depends on the area of the land plot; for large sizes, they manage with the simplest technologies, for example, stepson tops to limit growth only once when 5-6 sheets appear.
Note! If it is necessary to form a watermelon in open ground, the simplest scheme is used: the lashes are allowed to grow freely, pinching is done only if the lash is extended and has entered the area intended for other plantations.
Pinching watermelons is done when the ovaries of berries appear, all excess leaves are removed.
A watermelon planted in a greenhouse needs to be pinched for a more rational use of the area and for the early ripening of fruits. In addition, indoor plants can be tied to trellises, which is very convenient for caring for them. Some features of pinching depend on this. The plants themselves can be planted thicker, and carried out in 1-2 stems, that is, apply 2 schemes for the formation of watermelons.
If we talk about how to pinch a watermelon, you should consider all the possible methods often used by gardeners:
In order not to harm the future harvest, it is important to know how to pinch watermelons correctly:
Before you start pinching, you need to choose the right planting method. It depends on the weather and the region where the gourds will be grown. There are several ways. Let's consider them in order. Depending on where the watermelons are planted, their care may differ.
In open ground, plants develop quite well and give a good harvest. It is advisable to choose varieties for planting that pollinate themselves, because it is not very convenient to pollinate bushes on your own. If it is rather cool at night, then it is recommended to cover the landing with a film so that the seedlings do not freeze.
The soil where watermelons grow needs to be fed regularly. Usually, liquid mullein, manure and other types of organic fertilizers are added to the ground. For a good harvest and accelerated fruit ripening, superphosphate with potassium is added to the soil. During dry periods, watering is recommended to be carried out 2 times a week. This will prevent the soil from drying out quickly.
It is possible to grow in sufficient quantities such heat-loving berries as melons and watermelons in most Russian regions, not only in the south, they are also cultivated in Siberia. Growing watermelons and melons in the middle lane is associated with the risk of frost and other adverse factors; in order to grow a good crop, experience and knowledge of agricultural practices are required.
Watermelons and melons belong to the melon family. It is possible to grow them in the neighborhood, but they should not be planted too close, they are prone to the same diseases and can infect each other.
Melons and watermelons
The creation of new melon varieties that ripen earlier, the improvement of their cultivation technology make it possible to obtain ripe fruits in cool regions, subject to some growing methods.
When 3 to 5 leaves appear on seedlings, the plant can be transferred to a site prepared in advance for planting.
Important! Female flowers appear first on the lateral shoots of melons, so the tops need to be pinched before planting in the soil.
Approximately 7-8 days before planting, the plants should be hardened, the temperature during the day should be maintained at 15 degrees, at night - about 12 and often ventilate the room.
It is recommended to plant seedlings at the end of the month of May, when a stable high temperature is established. If there is a threat of frost, plants planted under the open sky must be covered with a film. Seedlings should be planted in pits at a distance of a meter or more from each other, first place about 2 kg of humus in the pits and pour generously with warm water.
The growth of watermelon lashes can continue as long as it is warm and there is enough moisture, and many ovaries and side shoots will form. With a short warm season in the regions of the Russian middle zone, they will not be able to ripen or there will be many small and tasteless berries. When growing seedlings, it is necessary to stop the tops of the main stems so that the tops do not grow excessively high and the plant forces are directed to the ripening of berries.
Pinching and growing
How to pinch watermelons and melons depends on the climatic features of the area and the variety of berries, as well as the method of cultivation: in a greenhouse or open land.
How to form watermelons in open ground also depends on the area of the land plot; for large sizes, they manage with the simplest technologies, for example, stepson tops to limit growth only once when 5-6 sheets appear.
Note! If it is necessary to form a watermelon in open ground, the simplest scheme is used: the lashes are allowed to grow freely, pinching is done only if the lash is extended and has entered the area intended for other plantations.
Pinching watermelons is done when the ovaries of berries appear, all excess leaves are removed.
On the lashes, 2-3 leaves should be left, and the lashes without ovaries should be completely removed. The left whips are laid out at a distance from the neighboring ones so that they do not touch and are not confused with neighboring shoots. After the berries reach the size of a small apple, the weakest shoots should be removed and 3-4 fruits left on the stems left.
Watermelon pinching pattern
For areas with a short growing season, it is recommended to apply a pinching scheme for watermelons and melons, which will ensure the formation of ovaries on third-order stems. As a result of scientific research, it was determined that berries grow faster than others on stems belonging to third-order shoots.
Seedlings can be planted in the greenhouse earlier, in early May. Seedling care is the same as when planting in open ground, you only need to periodically ventilate the greenhouse, if the plants are not pollinated by insects, you need to provide artificial pollination.
Pinching watermelons in a greenhouse
A week and a half after planting the seedlings, watermelons are tied up.
Lateral shoots, on which the ovary is present, are pinched at a distance of 2-3 sheets from it. The main shoot is also pinched when reaching the trellis. You need to understand that a lot of watermelons on the whip will not ripen, their sizes will be small. Therefore, when the fruits reach the size of a chicken egg, no more than 3 fruits are left on the whip, the rest are removed without pity.
After the first pinching of the seedlings, the melon forms several side shoots, one or two of the most developed ones are selected, each one is tied up and grown as the main lashes. When they grow to a trellis, they pinch. The number of fruits that should be left is no more than 3 per lash.
Scheme of the formation of a melon bush
Docking the tops in the case of growing in a greenhouse can be omitted, this procedure is done in places with a short warm season. With a warm long summer - in the south, in the black earth - you can do without it.
Note! Docking the tops of plants when grown in a greenhouse differs from the formation when planting in open ground only in that greenhouses pinch when they reach the trellis, since the height of the greenhouse blocks further growth.
In Altai, a simple method of forming a watermelon is used: one shoot and one ovary are left, side shoots, flowers and ovaries are removed, the main lash is cut off, leaving 5-6 leaves. The result is one large watermelon.
People's advice on the formation of watermelons
The method of pinching watermelons is used when the main lash and two stepchildren are allowed to grow. They grow in the axils of the third and fourth leaves. Leave one ovary on the lashes. Harvest with this scheme - 3 watermelons of the desired maturity, pleasant taste and the right size.
When growing in mid-latitudes, it is especially important to form a bush correctly, there are three main ways:
When deciding how to pinch watermelons, you need to take into account the climatic features of the region and the method of cultivation. There is no universal technology; in the absence of experience, it is better to try out simple technologies for the correct formation of a bush. It is also possible, through experiments, to identify the best ways to form a bush and normalize the number of fruits in regions with a short warm season.
For what and growing in your country house. What does pinching a watermelon give, how to perform this operation: 3 main ways to form a watermelon lash
Some summer residents try. The agricultural technology of this culture has its own subtleties, because this plant is accustomed to the hot sun and a lot of heat. In the south, they can grow without restriction, and in hot countries many fruits can ripen, for this reason there is no need to regulate fruiting. In the middle lane, the question of how to pinch watermelons is very important for getting a good harvest. This culture is predisposed to continuous growth, their lashes can sometimes stretch for 6-7 meters. To feed this huge mass of greenery, you need a huge amount of moisture, nutrients and, most importantly, sunlight. But in a warm summer, a watermelon bush that forms many lashes may not have time to grow normal berries.
When growing this berry, the goal is to grow juicy and sweet fruits, this is difficult to do without tweezing the shoots. Pinch growth points of shoots to stop their development, stopping the growth of excess shoots. Please note that tweezing of watermelons is performed exclusively in cold latitudes (Urals, Siberia, the middle zone of our country).
It is necessary for plants to direct their vital energy to the formation of fruits, and not to the growth of excess vegetative mass. This operation is carried out leaving 2-3 ovaries on the shoot, as a result of the fact that only a limited number of fruits and few shoots develop on the plant. As a result, the fruits grow and ripen much faster than on plants with not shortened lashes. If watermelons grow in greenhouses, then only the lateral stepchildren are cut off, in many varieties of this crop, the fruits form exclusively on the main stem, and on the remaining lashes the ovary cannot grow to normal size.
If the plants begin to interfere with each other, then you need to cut off the extra shoots. In most regions, gardeners leave 3-5 berries on each bush. As a result, the plant is not overloaded, and the fruits left will develop faster, grow sweet and big. It is not necessary to remove all the shoots and cut off many leaves, the plant needs photosynthesis for life, which can only occur with the help of leaves illuminated by the sun's rays. Be sure to leave 2-3 normal leaves after each berry, for this reason, you need to shorten the extra shoot above them.
On a watermelon in our conditions, you can leave no more than 6 fruits, and if large berries grow in your chosen variety, no more than four fruits. More of them will lead to a decrease in their mass and the berries will not be as juicy and sweet.
They begin to pinch, after 4-5 leaves form on it, this is necessary for the growth of lateral shoots, female inflorescences will appear on them and then the ovaries of future berries. Do not forget that on one bush, you can leave no more than 5 fruits. If they are properly looked after, they will gain a large mass and will have time to fully ripen before the cold weather. Shoots are pinched by removing the growth point (the place from which new leaves appear).
When several side shoots grow, some of them are removed, leaving only the 2 most developed and strong ones. Moreover, it is desirable to leave those that are located above, and the worst of them (most often these are the lower lashes) must be removed (just as pinching is done on tomatoes). Lateral shoots also need to be pinched after the appearance of 4-5 leaves.
After that, you need to wait a few weeks until inflorescences appear and ovaries form from them. Further, these lashes are also pinched, and the remaining lashes that appear must be pinched above 3-4 sheets. Flowers that appear on them must be removed. Planks are placed under the left fruits so that rot does not appear on them.
To grow a good crop you need:
On the main stem, plants leave 3 berries of large-fruited varieties; for plants with small fruits, it is permissible to leave up to 6 ovaries. The ovaries are not left on the side shoots, they should have 4 adult leaves, after which the shoot is pinched. These whips are necessary for additional nutrition of berries that will grow on the main shoot. As the fruit grows, the lower shoots must be cut off.
On a watermelon, side lashes are not left, they are cut off, and the ovaries on the main stem are left after 5 sheets. It must be remembered that during the growth of the plant, new stepchildren can form, they also need to be cut off, inspection should be carried out every 7 days.
Many gardeners do not cut off the side lashes, it is on them that the berries grow, and the ovaries are cut off on the main stem. After the green mass grows on the watermelon bush and the first inflorescences form, it is necessary to leave up to 4 flowers for large-fruited varieties, and no more than 6 flowers for small-fruited varieties.
One can be left on each lash, in some cases no more than 2 fruits. Left shoots with berries must be pinched, leaving 3-4 leaves above the ovary. After that, it is necessary to carefully cut off the extra stepchildren with scissors, especially if ovaries appear on them.
Pinching a watermelon and removing excess shoots should be done on a warm, sunny day, so the wounds on the plant will dry out very quickly. If you do this work in cloudy weather or during rain, then rot may appear on open wounds.
Varieties that need a lot of sunlight and heat ripen quickly and are very tasty. In our climate, cold weather sets in early, for this reason we need to help them ripen before the weather begins to deteriorate. When pinching watermelons of such varieties, it is advisable to leave only one berry on such a shoot so that they become tasty, have time to gain weight and fully ripen.
When growing a berry such as a watermelon, many beginner gardeners have many questions. After all, it seems as simple as choosing a certain variety of watermelon and planting it, but in the process of how this delicious berry begins to grow, many questions arise. What kind of watermelon is better to buy, how to water and pinch the plant?
In order to get a good harvest you need:
Pinching watermelons is needed for the rapid ripening of the fruit. The pinching procedure also affects the taste of the fetus. The berry becomes sweeter and juicier. Another procedure for pinching watermelons depends on the climatic zone in which watermelons are grown.
For example, in the northern regions, pinching a plant is a mandatory procedure, since in a short summer period the fruit simply does not have time to grow. Also, such a procedure as pinching should be done for watermelons of large varieties.
There are several types of formation of watermelons.
First way.
To form a watermelon, side shoots can be left. That is, only three berries should be left on the main shoot for large varieties of watermelon, for smaller varieties, up to six ovaries can be left. Lateral shoots are left without fruits.
Up to four leaves are left on such side shoots, and then the shoot is pinched. These abandoned shoots will provide additional nutrients to the fruits that will be located on the main shoot. As the fruits grow and the lower shoots are poured, they will need to be gradually removed.
Second way.
The formation of watermelon occurs without side shoots. In this case, all side shoots are removed, and the ovaries are left after a maximum of five leaves.
Particular attention should be paid to the fact that as the watermelon grows, new shoots may appear that will need to be removed. To do this, it is necessary to inspect the plants once a week, otherwise the fruits that were left simply will not grow due to a lack of nutrients.
Third way.
Many gardeners leave side shoots on the main shoot. It is on these side shoots that berries are grown, and on the main shoots are removed. When the plant has gained a green mass, and the first ovaries begin to form, then no more than four fruits should be selected for large varieties, and up to six fruits on the entire plant for smaller varieties.
On each lash, it is desirable to leave one, in rare cases, two fruits. The left whips with the fruit must be pinned; this is done at a distance of three leaves from the fruit itself. Then you need to remove the extra layers with ovaries with scissors from the main plant.
It is advisable to pinch and trim excess lashes on a sunny day; in this case, the cut off lashes will dry out quickly. If you form the plant in wet and cloudy weather, then rot can form on the cut off parts, which will lead to the disease of the whole plant.
Pinching ( pinching, pinching, pinching) is the removal of the top of a young shoot above the leaf (growth point). Pinching can be done with your fingers, but it is still better to use scissors. When you remove the growth point, the plant will immediately begin to form new ones, sometimes one, but usually two or more.
The main goal of this very important manipulation is to increase and improve the yield. And it must be done in a timely and correct manner. The tops of the shoot must be pinched above the leaf that was formed after the last inflorescence of those needed to ripen the crop matured. Each plant has its own growing season, but there is one rule: topping should be done no later than three weeks from the planned date of the last mass harvest fruits.
The need for pinching cucumbers is caused by the specific feature of laying predominantly male flowers on the main stem of the plant (they are often called empty flowers). Female flowers appear mainly on lateral shoots, and they can only be achieved through pinching the main stem. In addition, pinching significantly increases the yield.
Today, varieties have already been bred, the main stem of which is strewn with female flowers. But then there is a problem with men. And you can also provoke their appearance by pinching the head stem. If, for example, the plant is hybrid or varietal, then you need to remove the tops above the sixth leaf, and only 3 shoots will need to be left, but the rest must be cut off. On a regular variety, you need 1 stem, and remove weak shoots completely. Modern varieties of cucumbers with short lateral shoots do not need to be pinched. Note: Pinching a melon is carried out in the same way as for cucumbers. See also: Growing cucumbers without a greenhouse and chemicals
Pinching tall tomatoes is best done 40 days before the date of the expected harvest, when all the main brushes are formed. You need to leave 2 leaves above the last inflorescence. So without loss, all the fruits that have begun by this time will be formed.
Otherwise, the plant will stretch, set new fruits, and those formed earlier will ripen later, 6 years less and not so tasty. Similarly, pinch eggplant and pepper.
In zucchini (like zucchini), the top is broken off over 4-5 leaves. The main stem of the climbing squash is removed at the beginning of budding, when it reaches a length of more than 1 meter (1.3 on average), 3 lateral shoots 65-70 centimeters long with 1 meter of fruit on each are left. The pinching procedure is very similar for pumpkins.
But for bush and self-pollinated varieties, pinching is not necessary. But, when fruiting begins, it is better to remove 1-3 leaves in the middle of the bush: this prevents the development of rot.
When 2-3 fruits are tied and reach 5-7 centimeters in diameter, you can begin to pinch the tops of the side shoots. Do this as carefully as possible - the watermelon does not tolerate turning the whip over at all, and even more so trampling it with your feet. Related link: Growing melons , watermelons, eggplant and some other vegetables in Central Russia
The number of fruits per lash should not exceed 3 pieces, even better 2x, this allows you to significantly speed up their ripening and also improve the quality of the fruits (and, most importantly, their keeping quality). When they finally tied up and began to fill up, you can pinch the main stem and long side shoots (they are infertile). Or you can orient all the shoots in one direction, leaving only 1 fruit each.
In this case, it is better to sprinkle the internodes of the plant with humus. Removing the tops of potato shoots before budding (tip 2-3 cm) increases tuberization. The resulting fruits, when planted next year, will give a “rejuvenated” and healthier crop. If the male shoots are not removed by 80% (they do not bloom), the cucumbers will be bitter. But you should not cut off - they give the fruits nutrients.
Not every cultivar group needs to edit a growing plant. It is practically not necessary to form parthenocarpic varieties of the female type of flowering (for example, Graceful), but the old mid- and late-ripening varieties, especially in greenhouses, have to be formed:
This is simple, but one of the most effective and proven methods.
Subtleties begin even in the seedling period: Growing plants should not close with leaves. When the fifth leaf develops completely, pinch the growth point, the “blue ones” will begin to branch. Leave the three strongest shoots of the second order. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, pinch them after 2-3 ovaries appear on them. Remove all lower leaves up to the first fork, and remove the axillary stepchild shoots. light-requiring of all our vegetables, too many leaves and too close placement of adult plants are not at all useful for him. As they ripen, the fruits become so heavy that they can fill up the entire bush: they need props! They were wise with the earth and seeds, grew good seedlings.
Planted at the right time, in a good greenhouse and in the right land. We water, field, fertilize and rub our hands, watching how the tops bush. But no flowers, no ovaries, only greenery ... What is the mistake? And the fact that many varieties of vegetables need to be formed.
Most varieties, only with the correct system of pinching the shoots, a certain placement of plants on the ridge and on the support, will give the maximum yield. A kind of garden architecture!
There are some general rules, a kind of reference points: the fewer shoots, the faster the first fruit will ripen, but the total yield per plant is less and the fruiting period is shorter. Plus the weather. Both have to be taken into account and find a golden mean.
And every culture has its own principles of formation.
Rule one: sweet pepper - the client is fragile and requires delicate handling. Rule two: low-growing varieties do not pinch at all, they themselves do an excellent job with their figure. fuss with tall peppers (like Kakadu) in greenhouses:
Since the shoots are very fragile, under ripening fruits (especially large-fruited varieties), do not forget to substitute props in a timely manner (for example, forks from willow branches). pinching tomatoes Varieties come with limited and unlimited growth (determinant and indeterminate).
Many determinants do not require formation at all, without forming or almost without forming axillary shoots - stepchildren. And all the principles of "designing" a tomato bush are based on regulating the number of shoots and the number of inflorescences on them. This is especially true for indeterminate greenhouse varieties formed into one stem with five inflorescences:
Tomatoes have a curious feature: with a dense planting, they bear fruit better than with a sparse one! And the optimal distance between plants is usually indicated on the package with seeds of each variety. © Plushinsky, agronomist, St. Petersburg
Leave 1-2 shoots per plant. And it usually grows both 7 and 8 stems. Between the leaf and the main stem there is a stepson, like a tomato or cucumber, you pluck it!
It is useless to plant such seedlings - nothing will be good on it! It will be painful, it will be bad to take root. It is necessary to land with 1-2 real leaves that have just appeared!
How many times have I tried to plant only a hatched seed in a warm hole and it caught up in growth with the seedlings that had been standing on the window for a month. Someone grows watermelons in greenhouses, but you need to know that the whip must be released painlessly outside.
I grow my watermelons outdoors, but under cover on cooler days. Watermelons love warmth, so as soon as the fruit sets up and begins to grow, be sure to place heat accumulators under the fruit.
It can be any plastic water bottles or bricks, lay them where the root is. Some wooden boxes. Watermelons will not rot and they are warm.
This is how pollination occurs, but if this did not happen ... but how to understand it? The size of the berry should be like an apple, if the summer is damp and pollination has not occurred, then we tear off the male flower and pollinate the female ones. On the female one can see a berry.
At first, watermelons need frequent watering, otherwise they will stop growing. You can use drip irrigation. When the berry begins to grow, be sure to tie it up with any nets, otherwise the thin stem will break from gravity:
So, we planted seedlings, how to care for watermelons in the future? The most important thing is to stepson once a week! Stems come from the center of the bush - we leave only two stems. The fruit is tied up - we count 6 sheets and pinch the lash. On one bush we leave no more than 2 - 4 fruits.
If they are still tied, then it is better to cut them off, otherwise you will not have enough food for the already growing ones and the new ones will not have time to grow. Do not forget to put any pieces of wood under the fruit and cover the place of the root with bricks or bottles of water for warmth.
This is what matted fruit looks like in the first thirty days: And this is what it looks like when it is already ripe in the next thirty days, when you should stop watering. It starts to shine. If you plucked a watermelon, and it turned out to be unripe, then do not be discouraged - dry it.
You will get an amazing delicacy that will leave with a bang! Cut into thin slices and spread on a grid, dry. The water will dry, the sugar will remain - you will lick your fingers yummy! Growing melons is even easier!
Melons are good because if they are picked green, they ripen in the process of maturation! Successfully grow a melon in a cucumber, and especially in a tomato greenhouse and endlessly enjoy fragrant fruits throughout the year, starting in July!
Varieties of melons are also diverse: "Honey", "Fairy Tale", "Iroquois", "Caramelka". Start with "Scythian Gold". But do not undertake to grow "Kolkhoz Woman" - this is a fodder melon, it will turn out tasteless and not interesting ... Maybe she lacks something with us.
But I did not like this variety ... After it, you will not want to grow melons anymore. Try growing any other high-sugar, melon-flavored melons.
They are fragrant, honey, exude such a flavor!!! There are mesh patterns, there are smooth ones. Melon can be eaten when it starts to smell!
When she smells, she is ripe.
Agricultural technology is the same. The only circumstance with melons is that they grow only on lateral shoots. Therefore, as soon as 4 leaves have grown on the seedlings, you pinch it!
You plant the melon and immediately mulch with grass: The melon grows for about 60 days. But if you stepchild!
If you allow her to weave where she wants, then there will be a huge amount of tops and there will be no fruits. Pinch after the fourth sheet. And on the side shoots you will see a huge amount of fruit. But you need to leave 6 pieces on one bush. This is absolutely enough.
If you want, you can plant more often and more. But no more than 6 fruits per bush!
Plant your melons after 50 cm and they will grow well for you. Do not forget to put some kind of substrate under the ripening fruits so that the melon does not absorb moisture from the soil. If you grow in a greenhouse, then also tie up like watermelons.
As soon as the fruit has poured the size that you need, stop watering. Everything, as with watermelons.
| Garden 23 July 2013 Often summer residents and amateur gardeners wonder how to pinch watermelons, and often other related ones: “is it necessary to do this at all?” After all, it is known that watering, top dressing and weeding are not the only factors for a successful harvest of watermelons. But one of the important tasks for a summer resident is to get large, juicy and sweet berries. |
Video: how to pinch watermelonsIn the presented video you will find all the answers to your questions, how to pinch watermelons, special recommendations, photos of watermelons from cottages and gardens, and the secrets of a rich harvest. The procedure is quite simple, and a visual video tutorial will help you figure out how to properly care for watermelons. Do I need to pinch watermelons?We will answer the question of why it is necessary to pinch watermelons. In order for the berry to ripen well and give truly juicy and sweet fruits, it is not enough just to water the plant and fertilize the land where it grows. One of the most important secrets in properly caring for a watermelon is pinching it. This process is reminiscent of pinching tomatoes and other plants that produce vegetable or fruit fruits. Pinching consists in removing the upper layers of young shoots in order to avoid the growth of the latter. By the way, melons and gourds are cultivated in different Russian regions in different ways. So, in the Volgograd region, watermelons are able to ripen well without pinching. In the northern latitudes, when growing watermelons, they must be pinched. After such a simple procedure, the fruits begin to ripen much faster. In the case when watermelon is grown in greenhouse conditions, it is recommended to pinch only the side shoots, since the fruits always grow on the main central stem, while the remaining shoots, as a rule, do not ripen. How to pinch watermelonsAs already noted, watermelon berries form on the central stem. Usually pinching is done as follows: approximately 2-3 to 5-6 ovaries are left on each of the plants (depending on the variety of watermelons), and all the rest are cut off. The principle of pruning from the very beginning of growing watermelon (early stage) is as follows: as soon as the first shoot of watermelon gives five or six leaves, you need to cut everything below the second leaf. The remaining sinuses will also soon begin to give a couple of shoots. They also need to be removed as they appear. The next stage of pinching begins after the ovaries already appear. It is necessary to pinch the top of each lash, while leaving a couple of leaves above the last one. When the ovaries become the size of an apple, the weakest of them will need to be cut off. If you notice watermelons that do not bear fruit, remove them from the garden without regret so that they do not interfere with the rest of the plants to grow normally. Watch carefully so that the watermelons grow in relative freedom, without interfering with each other and getting maximum sunlight. In almost all places in Russia where watermelons are grown, any gardener or summer resident tries to keep only 3-5 ovaries, and all the rest are removed. So, watermelon is freed from unnecessary loads, and the fruits ripen faster, become sweet and large. With the beginning of the growth of the fruit, you should stop pinching to allow the watermelons to gain large sizes. You should not get carried away with this procedure, despite all its practical benefits. It is important to remember that any plant needs leaves. If there are very few leaves on watermelons, then pinch the shoot higher, but try to leave the leaves located above the fruits. |
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In most cases, in order to enjoy such yummy things as melon or watermelon, people go to the market or supermarket to get them. However, no one guarantees that the product will not harm your health.
It is this fact that makes many think about how to start growing these crops little by little right in their summer cottage or house adjoining area. How does this differ from planting and caring for berries such as currants, raspberries or Victoria?
If you start doing this, you will understand that it is no more difficult than growing tomatoes. The soil for growing watermelons and melons should be sandy and well warmed up, at least 26 C and protected from strong winds. Watermelons, as few people know, are completely different flavors, shapes, colors and sizes. It is invariable that the taste qualities of self-grown watermelons are always on top.
These berries are sown no later than mid-April, especially in those regions where it is very cold, for example, in the Perm region, Yakutia. From germination to planting should take about 20 days. They should have two cotyledons and two complete leaves.
Watermelon has different varieties, but not all of them are known to residents of regions remote from the center of Russia, especially in the north. So, for example, there are green watermelons with yellow flesh, on the contrary, yellow watermelons with red flesh, elongated large varieties and even square watermelons bred by the Japanese. So, how to plant, pinch and water watermelons and melons so that they grow tasty and big?
Watermelon seeds are soaked and planted in the ground in mid-April at a temperature of 25-30 C. Soak the seeds, as already mentioned, around mid-April. Although some varieties are described in such a way that they can be sown at the end of April, this only applies to those regions where spring and summer come early enough.
In other regions, there may be a shutdown of central heating even before the seeds can be transplanted into open ground. The planting depth of melons should be no more than 1.5 cm, and watermelons - a little deeper, about 2 cm. Germination occurs only at a maintained constant temperature of at least 25-30 degrees.
Wanting to taste a ripe watermelon, we head to the markets or supermarkets. But in this case, there is no guarantee that the purchased product will not harm our health. This is precisely what forces many to think about the possibility of growing such a crop in their backyard. And here the issues of agrotechnical plan become relevant. Not everyone knows if there is a need to pinch watermelons how to do it correctly. Meanwhile, experienced gardeners assure that growing watermelons is no more difficult than growing tomatoes.
Watermelon is considered an exotic berry, it must be grown in greenhouse conditions. or in the open field in areas with a favorable climate for this.
In addition to all the features of planting and growing, there is a procedure for pinching watermelons. This process, in its essence, resembles the pinching of seedlings of other crops (melon, sweet bell pepper, etc.).
It allows the fruit to ripen faster, gain sweetness and juiciness.
Attention: if cultivation is carried out in a greenhouse, then pinching is allowed not to be carried out. It is considered mandatory for the northern regions.
Pinching this berry allows it to direct all its energy to the formation of fruits, and not to build up excess green mass.
During such an operation, two or three ovaries remain on the shoot., a limited number of fruits and shoots develop on the plant.
Pinching is performed based on the cultivated variety and climatic conditions. Mandatory procedure is necessary for large varieties, an example of which can be considered "Astrakhan".
Varieties that need a lot of sunlight and heat ripen quickly and are considered quite tasty. In our areas, the cold comes early, so it is necessary to help the plants ripen while the days are warm.
For clarity, the features of pinching varieties are displayed in the table:
Some gardeners think that such a procedure can harm the plant, completely destroying the crop. But if you adhere to the established requirements, then productivity will only increase..
Pinch the top into three leaves. Extra processes are removed with scissors. Branching the bush allows you to get a good harvest. The optimal amount of remaining leaves helps the plant to feed and does not dry out.
Pinching is done in sunny weather so that the injured area can dry quickly. On rainy days, rot may appear, and the likelihood of diseases will increase.
Pinching a watermelon after fruit set:
To successfully grow watermelons in mid-latitude regions, it is necessary to correctly form a bush. There are three main methods for this:
Formation of watermelons in open ground:
One or two fruits should fall on the whip. All the left shoots are pinched, leaving three to four leaves above the ovary. Excess stepchildren are carefully removed with scissors.
As soon as young watermelons begin to gain weight, all pinching procedures must be stopped. The plant is starting to take off.
If you've overdone, and by the time the berries grow, a small amount of foliage remains on the bush, it is recommended to pinch the shoot itself, located above the fruit.
This measure will help provoke the formation of new leaves, which each plant needs for normal development.
The pinching option is selected based on cultivated variety, conditions and climate. A suitable technique is determined experimentally.
For the first time, several bushes are planted, each of which uses one of the types of pinching. At the end of the season, yields are compared and appropriate conclusions are drawn.
After these events the harvest on your melon will always grow rich and tasty.
