In the course of a major overhaul or due to the failure of plumbing, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet bowl. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should take into account a number of features of this process and correctly approach the choice of a new toilet bowl. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will do all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the best option and method of mounting.
A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:
It is very important to make a choice and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.
According to their design, floor toilet bowls are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main nodes.
So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:
The shape of the bowl distinguish:
The flush tank can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes to the ceiling.
Fixing toilets to the floor are also different. Basically, there are options with two and four direct attachment points, in addition, structures may come across in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is already attached to them.
Choosing a toilet should begin with the selection of the type of drain. If it is not intended to change the supply of the sewer pipe, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No adapters and pipes will be able to connect a toilet bowl with high quality, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.
The way the tank is connected affects the cladding work in the toilet. After all, if a wall mounting method is chosen, then it will be necessary to prepare a place and anchors for installation.
Before you change the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the design after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing the rest of the equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.
You can not stand on ceremony with the dismantling of the toilet, because it is unlikely to be reused. In this case, to facilitate work with chipping off the cement coating, it is better to beat off most of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer. In order to make it easier to scroll and loosen the drain after that, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod or wooden stick as a lever.
If cast-iron drain pipes are laid in the apartment, it is best to change them all to plastic at the same time. The use of PVC pipes for sewerage greatly facilitates the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.
There are three main options for attaching the toilet to the floor:
If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchoring or with a prepared wooden base. In this embodiment, at the stage of forming a screed on the floor, anchors are placed on it strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and holes for fastening. As a result, they should protrude about 5-6 cm above the surface. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face a problem when the anchor is not enough to fix the nut on it.
A wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the base of the toilet bowl. Nails are hammered into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After that, turn the board over and install it in the place of the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After that, you can install the toilet in place and secure with screws.
When fixing the toilet under the nuts for the anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets that will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty drips on the ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that at the end of their service life they can still be easily unscrewed.
For installation on an already finished surface, for example, on a tiled floor, fastening with dowels or epoxy is better, so as not to spoil the appearance of the coating.
You can do without the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, it is enough to take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet bowl. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on the wall, because it is half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk with an abrasive stone or sandpaper on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will normally adhere to the surface. After that, a layer of several millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and the toilet. After setting everything in its place, you should wait for the glue to dry completely.
It is getting more and more popular. The wall-hung toilet is installed on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to fix it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and already to it the toilet bowl itself in the event that it is supposed to hide the tank and pipes behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases, a hinged toilet with an open tank can be attached directly to the wall, but then it will be necessary to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is carried out using anchors mounted in a wall or frame.
So, having familiarized yourself with the process of replacing the toilet bowl, you can compare do-it-yourself installation options and pay for the work of a plumber. On average, installing a toilet bowl costs from 400 to 1200 rubles, if you turn to private craftsmen. However, the cost of installation can increase significantly depending on the high cost of plumbing and the complexity of its installation.
If you started a major overhaul of the bathroom, or the plumbing is out of order, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.
Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or turn to private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will not only save you money, but also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.
In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to repair your toilet to help you do it yourself.
Replacing a toilet bowl in its entirety is part of a comprehensive one, so it includes:
You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.
Floor toilet bowls are divided according to their design into several types. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.
Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with a vertical and direct outlet.
The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing work in the toilet room. For example, if you chose to mount to the wall, then you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.
Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because it is unlikely that you will reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to facilitate work, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe, insert a metal rod there as a lever, so that it is easier to loosen the drain.
For your information: if you have cast iron drain pipes installed in your apartment, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. The operation of PVC pipes is much easier, both for the initial wiring and for connecting all drain points.
After you have dismantled the old toilet or done all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and proceed with the installation of the toilet bowl.
Now we will consider in more detail the methods of attaching the toilet bowl, as well as the features of each of them.
Usually there are three options by which the toilet is attached to the floor:
If you decide to change the toilet due to a major overhaul, then the most suitable option would be anchoring or a prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet bowl are placed on the floor when forming the screed. You should install them so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.
Match the taffeta (wooden board) to the size of the toilet base. Over its entire surface, hammer nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they protrude on the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and place it where the toilet will be. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.
There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet bowl to a tiled surface. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and dowels: they will not allow the toilet to crack when tightened and prevent rusty drips on ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts, they are easy to unwind even after the service life has expired.
Tip: when installing the toilet on, in order to prevent damage to its appearance, use an epoxy mount or dowels.
Under the dowels, you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It is best to place the toilet on a cushion of sealant, and then press down with screws.
When installing a toilet, you can do without parts such as anchors, dowels and screws. Epoxy resin will come to your rescue. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet bowl and the floor surface in accordance with all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on the wall, since it is it that represents half the weight of the complete structure.
Recently, hanging toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation, you will need to make a metal frame and attach it to the load-bearing wall, and fix the toilet bowl directly on it if you plan to hide pipes and a tank behind a plasterboard wall.
You can also mount a hanging toilet with an open-type cistern directly to the wall, but in this case, you will need to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The structure is fixed by using anchors built into the frame or wall.
With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation - a task of medium complexity
In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.
The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is flush-mounted - built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).
The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, the installation of suspended models is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - the installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.
The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:
If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.
A toilet bowl, a tank, a drain device and a float are usually brought from the store separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.
What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?
The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.
On the reverse side, the supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.
The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.
Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.
We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.
Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.
We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.
Installing a tee
The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.
If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.
In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.
The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.
Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.
Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.
If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the impact mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.
We put plastic plugs from dowels in the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.
We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.
The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe to the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.
To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.
The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.
The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.
The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).
Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the wall-hung toilet installation is checked.
Checking the horizontal
By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.
The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.
In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.
Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).
The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without applying excessive force - it is plastic.
A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.
A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.
Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.
The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.
Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet bowl can be mounted in the traditional way or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Baby | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.
First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.
In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.
The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
We pay attention to pipes. Sewerage from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Marks on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.
Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.
Accessories for toilet bowls and urinals
If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:
If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:
Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.
Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly order for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.
We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.
Modern installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.
The first stage is the installation of the frame
We carry out the installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
The second stage - we hang the tank
We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:
The third stage - we mount the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:
The fourth stage - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models of tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!
For connection, it is best to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.
We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:
We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between the fasteners.
We tile drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.
Stage six - install the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.
Important! Previously, the tile that will come into contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the vent pipe and secure the sanitary ware with the bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of mounting a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.
Read our new article - and also find out what varieties there are, how to choose and install.
Successful work!
Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.
I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.
- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).
- height
- width
- length
- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.
- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)
- retro
- modern
— hi-tech
– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone
- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.
Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.
I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.
Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or go out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about: 
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.
Attention
In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.
In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Here, buy a flexible eyeliner (hose) to connect to a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.
Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is obvious.
The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores then work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.
First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks, if they are, then dismantle with caution.
We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows are not strong, but it’s not hell to be liberal.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.
Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet bowl.
We are aiming for the following result:
But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.
I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.
Attention
In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.
To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.
Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: cutting off the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore, we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.
Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.
Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:
If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.
The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "familiar" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.
Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting next step.
The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.
We knead the solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.
Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.
Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly. 
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the outlet of the toilet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving the device closer, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall. 
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.
Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, it won’t fit in full size. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.
I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:
If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.
At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.
Let's move on to the next step.
There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.
I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll just give you one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.
Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:
Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.
Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the overflow of the outlet and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.
By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan
With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.
1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer on top of the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.
2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;
3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.
Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.
This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.
In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.
So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape
Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:
Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.
There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
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And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect
