For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this is a product of a well-known brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.
The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with the optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.
You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on a personal plot (for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A - portable workbench (mobile). Such a desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms (an extension, a garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform small work with small parts. The relatively low weight of the structure makes it easy to move it, if necessary, to another segment. As a rule, the maximum that such a workbench can be equipped with is a medium-sized vice and e / emery. This will allow the carpentry table to be partially used for small plumbing work.
For domestic purposes, a table according to option A is best suited for a home master. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.
If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.
What to consider:
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Workbench drawing example
The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. That's why for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.
In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.
Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).
Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so in the open, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.
Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.
This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry make clamping devices on their own.
In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that new, interesting ideas will appear. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the complete set of the table, the design features of various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
Not a single workshop is complete without a desktop, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, as it must have a number of features that distinguish it from a simple table and make it an indispensable assistant in the workshop. How to make a simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands from wood will be discussed in this article.
There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:
The design of the wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.
This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side, has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) to a vertical position. Thus, this design is well suited for rooms that have a limited area, since free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.
A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:
| Name | Purpose and description |
| table top | Table top |
| Frame | The supporting structure on which all other elements are based. |
| Reference element | Fastens tightly to the wall and is one of the supports of the work surface. |
| legs | Two supporting legs, structurally interconnected |
| Retainer | An element that is attached to the wall and serves to fix the folding workbench in the folded position |
All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.
Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare all the necessary tools and materials.
In the production process, the following tools and fixtures will be required:
During the production process, the following materials and components will be required:
Let's divide the whole production process into a number of simple technological operations.
A sheet of plywood will be used to make the countertop. It makes no sense to give dimensions, since in each case the dimensions must be selected individually for the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at this workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - the general idea and concept should be clear from the photo and video.
At this stage, the required dimensions of the future countertop are marked and trimmed along the outlined contours.
The frame is the main load-bearing element of a workbench made of wood. It must be strong, as all the load will fall on it. We recommend making it from an array, for example, a bar 40x80mm.
The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, however, if you make the base and a denser material, such as beech, birch or oak, then the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.
The frame has a "U-shaped" shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.
To fasten the bars to each other, you can use various types of fasteners, but the simplest and most versatile way is to mount on self-tapping screws at the end. In this example, the method of secret fastening with self-tapping screws is used.
Yes, with this option, the screws are hidden and they are not visible, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as fastening with self-tapping screws in the end, as well as using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.
The fastening of the frame to the tabletop in this example is also carried out with self-tapping screws that enter “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this fastening is the simplicity and concealment of self-tapping screws. Nevertheless, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three mounting methods described below:
The support element is a simple bar of the same section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which must be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main fulcrum of the future homemade locksmith workbench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it is difficult to offer something better than “planting” on self-tapping screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation, we will use the level for leveling.
The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85, the standard height is 720–780 mm from the floor level. As a rule, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.
The fastening of the frame with the table top to the supporting element can be done in various ways. The easiest is to use a roll loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).
In addition to the piano hinge, you can use various options for movable joints - simple door hinges, "frogs", furniture hinges, etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our folding workbench, made by hand.
In addition to the supporting element, our home-made metal workbench made of wood will rest on a couple more legs. They need to be made foldable so that in the folded position they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.
Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a piece from the stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to make a big variety in the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same bar 80x40mm. In order for the legs to fold, they must have roundings on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.
Set the axis of rotation of the legs. It is quite clear that if you just tighten the bot, then it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a couple, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when the bolt is tightened, the washers will sink into soft wood and a third of the washer will be needed to ensure the gap.
Thus, a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench can be made. The design is the simplest and can and should be modernized by each master for himself, for his workshop, for his technological operations, but this is only the basis that can serve as an idea for the further development of technical thought.
All photos from the article
Carrying out carpentry work in his home, any amateur craftsman should have a convenient device for them. It will become a guarantee of comfort and safety of your activity, and also significantly intensifies it.
Our article is devoted to how to make a wood workbench on your own.
The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive and extremely stable desktop, on which wooden blanks of various sizes are processed. The larger the fixture, the more heavy and dimensional elements on it can be processed.
At the same time, you can work on it with hand tools: a saw, a chisel, a brace, etc., as well as mechanical ones: an electric jigsaw, planer, drill, etc.
The workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.
Note! If the workbench will be more than one meter long, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large items. The larger vise can be made of wood, while the smaller ones can be made of metal.
Any welder or turner needs a workplace where they can work with metal: processing, sharpening, cutting, grinding. For these purposes, you need a locksmith workbench. The main difference between a locksmith's workbench and a carpenter's workbench is the metal surface, while the carpenter's surface is made mainly of wood.
Most home craftsmen prefer not to buy a workbench, but to make it with their own hands. Firstly, a do-it-yourself metal workbench will cost much less than a purchased one. Secondly, when making a structure, it is possible to realize your ideas, and finally, if everything is done correctly, then the quality of a home-made workbench will be several times better than that of a purchased one. With some simple metal manipulation, a small amount of tools, and welding and cutting skills, you can get a pretty decent table.
When manufacturing, you should divide the workbench into components (for more convenient assembly) and take into account important nuances:
First you need to decide where the workbench will be located and what you can fix it to. If the structure is angular, then the best option in this case is to start building from the walls themselves, while they must be strong.
This option is good because Design modifications can be made along the way., but if the master is inexperienced, then it is better to use another option. The optimal solution is the manufacture of a workbench according to ready-made drawings. Of course, the cost of this option is several times higher, but the dimensions and material have already been selected and indicated in the drawing, which greatly facilitates the work.
The base is made of the 35th corner with a wall thickness of 5 mm. From such material the steady design turns out. A 3 mm thick sheet is used as a working surface, 60 mm thick boards are present under the sheet, which provides even greater structural rigidity. The binding of the table can be made from a thinner corner, since the load on it is minimal, and boards can be used from 20 mm. As for the remaining shelves, plywood is used as a pallet, the thickness of which ranges from 10 to 20 mm. Drawers are made of 2 mm steel. For the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench, the dimensions are shown below.
The height and width of the vise table can be changed and adjusted to suit your needs. You will also need the following materials:
After the frame is ready, it is necessary to clean the metal. Then, in order to avoid metal corrosion, the structure must be coated with a metal primer in 2 layers and then proceed to painting. Wooden elements must also be primed and, if possible, varnished. Wood treated in this way will last a long time and will not absorb moisture and rot.
Once the boards are dry, they can be laid on the finished structure. It is advisable to drill holes at the beginning and at the end of each board and attach them to the base using metal screws. The sheet, which will serve as a kind of shield from hammer blows, must be laid on the boards and fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws to the boards. On all shelves you need to lay sheets of plywood and fix them in any way. The next step is to make the boxes themselves out of sheet metal.
After the sheet of metal has been made according to the drawing, its side parts should be bent and scalded. It should look like this:
Weld a handle to pull the drawer to the front. Before installation, you need to prime and paint in the same way as the frame itself. Insert the finished boxes into the workbench.
It should be noted that this workbench does not have room for legs. This, of course, is not very convenient, but on the other hand, you can put much more tools and workpieces. You can immediately attach a vice, drilling machine and other equipment to such a workbench.
Those who have little space at their disposal for a workbench, an option that combines a small metalwork table with workbench elements is suitable. On such a table you can place the most necessary plumbing equipment. The design looks like this:
You can make such a table in the workshop from a corner of 60 x 60 or 70 x 70. The corners need to be welded together to make a kind of rectangle. You can put boards or plywood on the bottom of the table, but before that, you need to drill holes in the lower parts of the corner to fasten the table to the floor.
The structure should be primed and painted. If the table will stand in a dry, heated room, then to save money, you can not process the surface. For the countertop, a sheet with a thickness of 6-7 mm is required, under which boards should be laid to dampen vibration from hammer blows and work with power tools. The sheet is fastened with bolts or screws for metal.
All sizes are purely individual and are selected by the master independently.
This design is good because it takes up little space, and even a novice locksmith can make it.
This option is made from a square pipe and a corner. The frame is made of a square pipe, and the corner will give the structure the necessary rigidity and is used for edging.
Tools for making a workbench:
The structure must be welded in such a way that the second part of the corners can be welded onto its upper surface, in which the boards under the countertop will be located.
Now you can start making a frame from the corners for the tabletop. The corners must be cut into two parts, 2000 mm long. You will also need two corners of 750 mm. All this must be welded so that the boards under the countertop lie in the grooves of the corner.
In order to weld the crate for the tool, you will need two corners of 2000 mm and 4 corners of 950 mm each. To strengthen the frame, fix the corners 950 mm long in the middle and two on the sides. The panel can be welded to the worktop as follows:
The next step is to strengthen the structure with the help of corners. This must be done as shown in the figure:
It's time to make plywood boxes. The process itself is simple: plywood should be cut into blanks with a jigsaw, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, and their number can be from two to three. It is necessary to attach guides to the boxes, but before that, two metal strips should be attached from each side, to which the guides will be attached.
After all the components are ready, you can proceed to laying the boards on the workbench. The board must be no thinner than 50 mm and 2190 mm long. If you can’t find long boards on the farm, then you can get by with short pieces of 74 cm each. Before laying, you should treat the boards with an “anti-bark beetle” to extend their service life. The metal structure needs to be primed and painted. On top of the boards you need to fix the steel sheet.
At the very end, boxes are installed, and the tool stand is sheathed with plywood.
The last step is to ground the workbench to avoid electric shock. You can immediately attach a vise, grinder and various devices to the countertop. Optionally, it is allowed to run cables for sockets and additional lighting, which will make the work even more comfortable.
As practice has shown, the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench is a rather painstaking task that carries financial costs, but the master will receive only positive emotions from working on such a table. Work will become much easier due to the fact that all the tools will be at hand.
The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to make a workbench with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its result.
Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of one's own design.
The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal frame.
Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.
In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.
Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:
"Universal" prefabricated workbench
This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.
In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.
The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.
The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:
Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.
A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.
The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.
A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.
The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.
If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.
Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.
An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, typed on glue from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.
It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.
Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.
Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.
These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive fixed vices.
The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.
How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.
The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.
All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.
First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.
The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).
Note: the nut welded on the base, before the passage of the thread, must be allowed to rest for 2 hours so that the residual deformations “subside”.
The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:
Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.
A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.
A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design
The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.
Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.
Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.
If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.
Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.
At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.
In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.
Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.
When a country house or other light wooden structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.
For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.
