Power cuts are not uncommon in cottage and country houses. Some country and summer houses do not have a centralized power supply system. In such situations, an externally powered UPS will be an indispensable option. Power outages can be caused by the following reasons:
In such a situation, it is better to play it safe and purchase an uninterruptible power supply for a country house. With this device, you can achieve the following goals:
The UPS is an electronic device that provides uninterrupted, but short-term power supply for computer.
The review can be useful to all kinds of summer residents and users of country houses (and maybe not only country houses), in places with frequent power outages ...
At the moment, you can buy an inverter directly from the factory a little cheaper than using the link indicated in the review header - a link will be posted at the bottom of the review.
Instead of a preface
For several years now I have moved to live in a country house (I just like it), and faced the problem of periodic power outages. The reasons put forward were various and the lack of power of the transformer in the SNT (knocked out) and various works, etc.
It is clear that these problems did not please me, especially considering that, like most summer residents, I have water from a well, and when there is a power outage, it simply does not exist: (Well, in the cold season, the boiler can turn off without power supply, all these flashlights are tired / candles...
I started looking for solutions to this problem.
The first options were the installation of solar panels / windmills (collected information) ... But the price + payback of this enterprise was very frightening. Rather, such a solution is relevant for those who do not have access to network electricity at all, while the costs make sense, as commensurate with connecting to network sources. In my case, regular shutdowns for several hours, it turned out to be too expensive and unprofitable.
The option with benzo and diesel generators was considered (most of the neighbors use a similar option), but it has a number of disadvantages, in comparison with the born idea, to use only a “part” of the solar power system at home! Well, i.e. use the existing 220V network instead of solar panels to charge the batteries, and consume the charge in the absence of the main one from the batteries.
Well, in short, the final version of the scheme turned out to be very far from the solar energy supply scheme :) But on the other hand, it is MUCH cheaper and simpler, and even benzo and diesel generators are cheaper
The scheme has successfully worked for more than one year!
Schematic elements are
Inverter with UPS and external battery control/charging(in my case, the inverter is 1500W (peak 3000W) - in some Chinese sources there was a figure of 3000W peak load up to 4 minutes, I didn’t check, I don’t know :) Or rather, the type of check (accidentally) turned out, but I don’t presume to judge how correctly this is considered - I will describe the details below.
Below in the photo there will be a 2000W inverter (bought by a neighbor) and mine at 1500W, so different stickers with power will appear.
Actually observed from all sides :)
In front, two control arrow indicators (there are modifications) with an indication of the 220v network (by output), level 12v and indicators of the operating mode (charge / operation from the network; "Faule" - the "emergency" mode, this mode turns on for a short time when switching and malfunctions in the network, after which it returns to normal; signaling the power supply of the inverter).
It may be worth noting that when the inverter is turned off, the transmission of the network continues through it. And one more feature (I would say "cant") - in the process of work, I noticed that the indication of 12v is not always an indication of the battery charge. If you make the initial switch-on WITHOUT a battery at all - 12 V will be supplied from the internal converter and therefore the readings will still be 12V, although there will be no battery as such. In short, it is not entirely clear with the 12v indication , now asked a question to the representative of the plant, what he can answer.
Here is the kit that comes...
In theory, everyone chooses the power of the inverter according to their estimated load, I started from the average monthly consumption recalculated taking into account the possible peak at the time the pump motor is started. It must be borne in mind that it makes no sense to power ALL electrical consumers, because for a couple of hours you can safely endure the lack of water heating by heaters, a washing machine, a refrigerator (it does not thaw in almost a day)
The lower the total power, the less power the inverter needs and the smaller the battery capacity (for the same operating time) - this REALLY allows you to significantly reduce the cost of creating an emergency power supply.
In my case, a modified sine wave inverter is used (it is somewhat cheaper). In the case of connecting (for example) a refrigerator, heating boilers (pumps - you need to read the documentation) and other devices that require a PURE sine wave (usually these are devices with asynchronous motors), it is necessary to choose a slightly more expensive inverter that produces a "pure sine wave" (not forgetting about the functions UPS and charge, if you are interested in AUTOMATIC switching to emergency power and back).
My well pump also “likes” a pure sine wave, but I proceeded from the fact that I have it with a hydraulic accumulator (24l tank), and its inclusions in work are relatively short-lived. During this time, the pump does not have time to heat up and go into protection (by the way, thermal protection seems to be installed on everyone now).
In practice, once the pump went into protection, when in the summer the pump was constantly on (the garden was watered) and the wife did not notice that the emergency power turned on :) How long it worked before the protection went off is unknown :) I did not conduct special experiments.
Also, do not forget about the very large current passing through 12v, so the connection of the inverter with the battery should be made with a very large cross section (it is easy to estimate that in my case the current can exceed 100A at full load).
In general, I would advise choosing a 24V inverter and powering from two batteries (to reduce currents) for users who expect to use a significant load!
Car battery(I bought with a margin - for 190 Ah).
As it turned out during operation, this capacity is too redundant for me - in real life, in almost 5 hours of battery life, the readings of the built-in battery voltage meter did not change noticeably. At the same time, lighting was turned on in a couple of rooms, street lighting and two TVs for 24 "and 38", a laptop 17 "(water was turned on if necessary) and maybe something else ... + it was quite possible to earn extra money with various hand power tools.
Buying special batteries (whether traction or gel) I decided inappropriate, because. the inverter has battery charge control, and unlike “solar technologies”, it does not produce it below its “normal discharge”, and the price is noticeably different.
To confirm my assumptions: I did not measure the new one (I am almost sure that when measuring there would not be 190 Ah, but recently I decided to check the residual capacity after a year of use and was pleasantly surprised :)
For a more optimal connection, I divided the entire wiring of the cottage into two parts (in the electrical box):
-One part goes directly from the network, and is not reserved by an emergency source - electric water heaters, a washing machine, a refrigerator and other rather energy-intensive consumers, without which you can easily "live" for several hours.
- the second part is connected from the box via a cable to a regular plug, so that if necessary it can be plugged into a nearby outlet (in this case, the inverter and battery are easily excluded from the circuit), this may be necessary, for example, if the inverter, battery fails or for their services.
At the same time, the inverter at the output already has a pre-installed standard socket, to which the plug with consumers requiring backup power is connected.
I got it pretty much like this.
You need to keep in mind (in mind) some safety precautions when choosing a location and installation(not exactly like mine - it was done rather for testing, but so far it has remained so, as they say, there is nothing more permanent than "temporary" :))
The circuit is triggered when 220V is turned off (or the parameters are changed above / below the permissible ones) - it switches to battery power, while a slight noise is heard from the inverter cooling fan (depends on the number of consumers connected at the moment) and the operation mode indication on the front panel lights up inverter. When the network appears, it switches back to the network 220 and the fan noise increases, while the battery is recharging. There are practically no “shocks” in the house, I don’t feel any discomfort from the loss of the network and I can’t even say right away (when the neighbors on the phone call they ask) - is there a “light” or not :)
The placement of sinusoids and other technical nuances in this review is considered optional - because. the review is more for practical application, and not for studying processes ...
Below is a photo of the internals of the inverter.
Comparison of "my" backup power scheme with similar ones on gasoline and diesel generators:
+ lower cost
+ no noise
+ no smell
+ automatic transfer to backup power
+ no problems when starting either in summer or winter (especially true when starting by women)
+ there is no need for a separate storage room (and possibly use) - it occupies one shelf on the veranda.
+ no need to purchase, bring, store fuel
Limited continuous operation time, depending on load and battery capacity.
± Controversial points, this is a rewiring and the shutdown of some consumers, because. you can connect EVERYONE and not redo anything, but you may need a more powerful inverter (possibly with a “clean” sine), a capacious battery (most likely using two in series and a 24v inverter to reduce currents in low-voltage circuits).
Conclusion: Quite a working scheme, I (and my wife) are at least completely satisfied.
As promised, about working with overload.
On NG he went to St. Petersburg to his friends, and the adult son remained "guarding the household". I have heating with wood (a stove with glass was specially installed, etc.). The son "in the process" could not find a "common language" with her and he lacked warmth. As a result, he plugged a 1.5-2kW oil cooler into an outlet that was powered through an inverter. Well, for the NG itself, there were power outages for several hours (the voltage sagged, then it disappeared and appeared, in short, there were specific switches).
This resulted in a load on my 1500 (3000) inverter of 1.5-2 kW of electric heater, light, TV, water pump 800W (when turned on several times, the excess), light, etc.
Well, the inverter could not stand such a long mockery :) But as it turned out later, only the relay contacts burned out - after the replacement, everything worked again :)
In the process of "mastering" the circuitry of this inverter, it turned out to "go out" to the manufacturer, who kindly provided the circuit-logic for troubleshooting this inverter.
Posted on my website, tk. Can't find file storage option herelink to archive
Well, as promised at the beginning of the review where to buy such an inverter cheaper (and others are also there)link to manufacturer, which begins to work with the shipment for RETAIL sale of a similar inverter and other electronics manufactured by it. Buying from this link is somewhat cheaper, because. without intermediaries
Maybe somewhere in Europe the supply of electricity is stable, there are no accidents on the power grid, and if they do, they are eliminated within a few minutes. And we live in Russia, and after a freezing rain, we can sit without electricity for three to four weeks, while teams of electricians will splice broken wires of power lines, and the Ministry of Emergency Situations will remove blockages and restore infrastructure.
And therefore, backup power supply at home in Russia is not a whim of the homeowner, but a vital necessity. In order to understand in which direction to dig, which backup power sources to choose, and what parameters they should have, it is necessary, first, to consider situations in which a typical owner may be without electricity.
According to the duration, the periods of power outages can be divided into 4 groups, each with its own characteristics:
Depending on which of the situations listed above is typical for your area of residence, you should think about how to solve this issue and organize a backup power supply at home - choose a scheme and select devices.
Consider for each period of power outage the most optimal backup sources of power supply:
Why not just run a generator during outages or just have a battery with an inverter?
It is possible so, but these schemes have disadvantages that the backup power supply system “UPS plus battery plus generator” lacks.
With shutdown periods of more than a day, a generator will still be required to maintain the backup power supply system “in good shape”.
If there is no UPS in the system, then during a shutdown, if the owner does not have time to react in time, the heating system on the TT boiler can go “out of order”. The combustion will continue in the furnace and the temperature without circulation of the coolant will increase.
There is a local overheating of the heating system, which, even with a safety group, will easily “boil” the boiler. The boiler and boiler piping will suffer if it is not made of metal.
As for a system without a generator, using only backup batteries, the life of such a system is limited by the capacity of the batteries. If you do not have a generator, then after the energy in the batteries is exhausted, you will have nothing to charge them with, and the vital devices in your home will be de-energized.
As for the generator, when used with a UPS that gives a “pure sine” at the output, you can use any - even with an approximation of a sinusoid, even with a meander.
The inverter generator will allow you to directly connect devices that require a "pure sine" at the output of the generator or UPS.
If you want to power other devices directly from the generator, you should choose an inverter generator. Its cost is not much different from the usual one, but the inverter generator produces a voltage in the form of a sinusoid at the output, which is “to the liking” of all modern electronic devices and.
Almost every owner of suburban real estate faces the need to organize backup power. And there are several reasons for this: deterioration of communications, intensive development in the microdistrict, discrepancy between the characteristics of the substation and the increased needs, and a number of others. This causes systematic (sometimes for a long time) power outages, its constant surges or phase imbalances. A problem familiar to many.
In such conditions, it's not enough to talk about the guaranteed service life of various (and sometimes very expensive) household appliances; many of them do not turn on at all. For example, an imported gas boiler, which is quite popular with "private traders", is very demanding on the quality of the voltage. "Foreign inventors" can't even imagine that such misunderstandings are possible with electricity. And if the protection works and he “gets up” in winter, with our frosts, then this is a real emergency.
With the expediency of redundancy for energy supply, everything is clear. But here's how best to do it and what to consider, we will consider in detail.
This implies the period for which it is necessary to organize an independent power supply to the site. Some devices are designed for long-term continuous operation (water-cooled gasoline engines), others require a systematic stop (the same air-cooled gasoline engines).
By the way, some specialized companies offer services for connecting directly to power lines (bypassing the local substation). Sometimes it is simply impossible to organize energy supply in a different way. For this, either a cable laid in a trench or an overhead line stretched to the site is used. If this organization has the appropriate license, and it takes care of all the paperwork for obtaining permits, then this is a great option.
The disadvantage is the cost of the work, since you will have to install your own substation. Although there is a way out - to "cooperate" with neighbors who experience the same inconvenience in energy supply. But there is also a tangible "plus" - power outages are excluded, and its quality will meet all standards.
approximate power
Further criteria for selecting an energy source will depend on this. Naturally, you should focus on those that should work constantly. For example, the same boiler, refrigerator, freezer. Each owner must make a list of all products that must be permanently turned on.
Most household units consume 1-phase 220 V. But there are also those that need 3 ph. This must be taken into account if they are also constantly used. But such products are quite rare.
According to approximate estimates of experts, you need to focus on a maximum of 20 kW. For a country house (if it is not a palace stuffed with various devices) it is quite enough. But this is for the all inclusive option. Perhaps the unit is enough for 4 kW. For example - if the boiler (together with the pump), the refrigerator and the TV + lighting work at the same time, then no more than 2 - 2.5 kW will be needed. If the water supply system is autonomous, then the pumping station will periodically turn on. Its power must also be taken into account.
In addition, it must be taken into account that some household appliances are characterized by a large starting current. For example, in an electric meat grinder, it exceeds the nominal value by 6–7 times. In addition, there should be a calculation for the future. Perhaps something else will be purchased, and also with a mandatory permanent inclusion. It is also necessary to make a “reserve” for the generator itself, since it should not work at the limit. Optimum loading - no more than 80%.
Summarize. As you can see, there are quite a few nuances. Therefore, it is necessary to determine all “products” (including lighting devices in the adjacent territory, automation, alarm systems, etc.) that must be provided with uninterrupted power at any time and calculate their total power. The resulting value must be multiplied by 1.5. Here, according to this parameter, and select a power plant.
It can be gas, diesel fuel (solar), gasoline. Everyone determines for himself what is more convenient (and cheaper) to work with.
It determines both the dimensions of the power source and its design features. For example, diesel smokes more, so a high-quality "hood" is needed. Units without a casing are “noisy”, therefore, they are more suitable for placement in outbuildings (outbuildings).
If it is planned to install a backup unit on the street, then you need to pay attention to the method of starting it (manual or automatic, from the battery).
If the house is gasified, then this is the best option. Fuel for such a device is the cheapest. The power of most of these products starts from 7 kW, which is quite enough for a country house with periodic power outages in the network.
The approximate cost is 180,000 rubles. But if you consider how much will be saved on fuel (compared to gasoline or solarium) for the entire period of operation, then the price is quite acceptable. In addition, there are almost no harmful emissions.
The most common type of devices for backup power supply. This is partly because we are better versed in these engines than in diesel ones. After all, many owners of country houses have a personal car, therefore, there is at least a general concept of the principle of work. In addition, they are easier to maintain.
This name refers to several varieties of such "equipment" - diesel generators, diesel stations, and so on. An indisputable advantage is the possibility of long-term (non-stop) operation. In addition, there are no gasoline vapors that require special fire safety measures.
We have given only the most common devices for organizing reservations. But there are a number of others, which, although they are used less often, are also worthy of attention. For example, UPS, solar panels, inverter systems.
Practice shows that regardless of the way to solve the problem of redundant power supply system, it is still necessary to have a backup generator. According to the reviews of most owners of country houses, gasoline units are more convenient both in terms of operation and repair. For example, they can always be refueled directly from the car tank.
When deciding on the organization of backup power supply, you should not be guided by someone else's opinion, focus on friends or neighbors. The main "tip" is your own house and the property located in it (first of all, technical devices and the location of lighting fixtures). They determine the feasibility of acquiring a particular unit.
It should be taken into account that UPS, solar panels are of limited use both in terms of time and connected devices (circuits). Their kit includes batteries, and they require constant attention (condition monitoring, recharging). In addition, modern batteries (unlike the "old" models, in which individual cells could be replaced) cannot be repaired.
If funds are available, it is advisable to mount a more complex, but reliable combined redundancy scheme. For example, turning on the emergency power supply from the UPS, followed by automatic start of the diesel engine. This is more expensive, but power outages are excluded.
The review can be useful to all kinds of summer residents and users of country houses (and maybe not only country houses), in places with frequent power outages ...
Instead of a preface you can skip the impatient - many letters)
Additional Information
For several years now I have moved to live in a country house (I just like it), and faced the problem of periodic power outages. The reasons put forward were various and the lack of power of the transformer in the SNT (knocked out) and various works, etc.
It is clear that these problems did not please me, especially considering that, like most summer residents, I have water from a well, and when there is a power outage, it simply does not exist: (Well, in the cold season, the boiler can turn off without power supply, all these flashlights are tired / candles...
I started looking for solutions to this problem.
First options there were installation of solar panels / windmills (collected information) ... But the price + payback of this enterprise was very frightening. Rather, such a solution is relevant for those who do not have access to network electricity at all, while the costs make sense, as commensurate with connecting to network sources. In my case, regular shutdowns for several hours, it turned out to be too expensive and unprofitable.
The option with benzo and diesel generators was considered (most of the neighbors use a similar option), but it has a number of disadvantages, in comparison with the born idea, to use only "part" from the power system of the house with solar energy! Well, i.e. use the existing 220V network instead of solar panels to charge the batteries, and consume the charge in the absence of the main one from the batteries.
Well, in short, the final version of the scheme turned out to be very far from the solar energy supply scheme :) But on the other hand, it is MUCH cheaper and simpler, and even benzo and diesel generators are cheaper
Below in the photo is a 2000W inverter (bought by a neighbor) 
In theory, everyone chooses the power according to their load, I started from the average monthly consumption recalculated taking into account the possible peak at the time of starting the pump engine. It must be borne in mind that it makes no sense to power ALL electrical consumers, because. for a couple of hours you can safely endure the lack of water heating by heaters, a washing machine, a refrigerator (it does not thaw in almost a day)
The lower the total power, the less power the inverter needs and the smaller the battery capacity (for the same operating time) - this REALLY allows you to significantly reduce the cost of creating an emergency power supply.
Further, in my case, a modified sine wave inverter (it is cheaper). In the case of using (for example) boilers for heating and other devices requiring a PURE sinusoid for pumps, as well as when connecting a refrigerator, etc. devices, you need to choose a slightly more expensive inverter that produces a “Pure sine wave” (not forgetting about the UPS and charge functions, if you are interested in AUTOMATIC switching to emergency power and vice versa).
for instance
The pump for the well also “loves” a pure sinusoid, but I proceeded from the fact that I have it with a hydraulic accumulator (24l tank), and the inclusions are short-term. During this time, the pump does not have time to heat up and go into protection (by the way, thermal protection seems to be installed on everyone now). In practice, once the pump was cut off in protection, when in the summer the pump was constantly on (the garden was watered) and the wife did not notice that the emergency power was turned on :) How long it worked before the protection was triggered is unknown :)
Car battery(I bought with a margin - for 190 Ah). 
As it turned out, for me, this capacity turned out to be too excessive - in real life, in almost 5 hours of battery life, the readings of the built-in battery voltage meter did not change noticeably. At the same time, lighting was turned on in a couple of rooms, street lighting and two TVs for 24 "and 38", a laptop 17 "(water if necessary) and maybe something else ... + it was quite possible to earn extra money with various hand power tools (if necessary).
Buying special batteries (whether traction or gel) I decided inappropriate, because. the inverter has battery charge control, and unlike "solar technologies" does not produce it below its "normal discharge".
For a more optimal connection, I divided the entire wiring of the cottage into two parts (in the electrical box):
-One part goes directly from the network, and is not reserved by an emergency source - electric water heaters, a washing machine, a refrigerator and other rather energy-intensive consumers, without which you can easily "live" for several hours.
- the second part is connected from the box via a cable to a regular plug, so that if necessary it can be plugged into a nearby outlet (in this case, the inverter and battery are easily excluded from the circuit), this may be necessary, for example, if the inverter, battery fails or for their services.
At the same time, the inverter at the output already has a pre-installed standard socket, to which the plug with consumers requiring backup power is connected.
I got it pretty much like this. 
You need to keep in mind (on your mind) some safety precautions when choosing a placement and installation (not exactly like mine - it was done rather for testing, but so far it remains, as they say, there is nothing more permanent than "temporary" :))
The circuit is triggered when 220V is turned off (or the parameters change above / below the permissible ones) - it switches to battery power, while a slight noise is heard from the inverter cooling fan (depending on the number of consumers connected at the moment) and the indication on the front panel of the inverter lights up. When the network appears, it switches back to the network 220 and the fan noise increases, while the battery is recharging. There are practically no shocks in the house, I don’t feel any discomfort from the loss of the network and I can’t even say right away (when the neighbors on the phone call they ask) - is there “light” or not :)
I consider the placement of sinusoids and other technical nuances in this review optional, so I will give a photo of the insides of the inverter (for educational program and maniacs suffering from dismemberment)
Comparison of "my" backup power scheme with similar ones on gasoline and diesel generators:
+ lower cost
+ no noise
+ no smell
+ automatic transfer to backup power
+ no problems when starting either in summer or in winter (especially true when starting with a wife)
+ no need for a separate storage space (occupies one shelf on the veranda)
+ no need to purchase, bring, store fuel
Limited uptime
± Controversial points, this is a rewiring and the shutdown of some consumers, because. you can connect EVERYONE and not redo anything, but the need for a more powerful inverter (possibly with a “clean” sine), a powerful battery (most likely the use of two in series and a 24v inverter, to reduce currents in low-voltage circuits)
Conclusion: Quite a working scheme, I (and my wife) are at least completely satisfied.
UPD.
Some time after writing and publishing this review, several events or news happened, how would I put it better :) I decided to add to this review, because. I don't know how they usually do things like this :)
1. As a result of some torture over the inverter, it was possible to “burn” it :) It makes no sense to describe HOW and HOW MUCH we gave it ... but it held firm :) Lighting, TV, laptop were turned on, the pump turned on regularly at 800 W of work (starter is much higher ) + added an electric fireplace for one and a half to two kW (now it’s hard to say in what mode it was turned on at that moment), while the mains voltage “walked” up to 120 and rose above 220 noticeably quite regularly, there were problems for the new year in the dachas ...
In short, as it turned out, the inverter itself survived, the switching relay contacts burned out. A replacement was made for another (unfortunately, I did not photograph the model), because. there were few options on the radio market for close current with switching over two contacts.
The scheme could only find a SIMILAR device, if necessary, I can also download it.
Well, in addition to all of the above ... The manufacturer offered to place a link directly to it. He has appeared, which is starting to work with sending a similar inverter for RETAIL, and a number of others and other electronics! I think many may be interested in a resource for review at least. Very responsive support, I would say even somewhat intrusive, but there is something to look at :) Especially since they promise to send it to Russia.
I hope this doesn't go against "local rules" :)
