Your repairman.  Finishing work, exterior, preparatory

A good material is concrete - durable. But strength also has a downside: it is difficult to make holes for fastening something in it. It is easy to drive a nail into a tree or tighten a screw, but how to drill a concrete wall? There is no need to rush to buy a hammer drill, and you don’t need an impact drill, you can do without a drill, but you definitely can’t do without a tool with which the wall will be drilled - a punch, a drill and a drill.

Drilling concrete walls: tool selection

There are several ways to drill concrete:

  • Chiseling with a hand punch.
  • Drilling with an electric drill.
  • Hollowing with a perforator.

To begin with, the most time-consuming method will be considered. It was used when it was not possible to use an electric / pneumatic tool, and is still used today. A special set of punches is bought - sharpened four-leaf metal pins with diameters from eight to twenty millimeters.

Pins can be made independently from any steel that can be hardened. But it is imperative to make 2-4 grooves on the side surface, which, on the one hand, form cutting edges, and on the other, serve as channels for removing concrete chips. The pin shank is often made square - turnkey from a vise. Having placed the pin at a right angle to the wall, they begin to hit it with a heavy hammer, turning around the axis, first with a hand in a mitten, then, when deepening by 15 millimeters, with a vise key.

So - until the complete victory of the world revolution. First, they work with a pin about eight millimeters in diameter. If necessary, the hole is re-passed with a pin of a larger diameter. It is clear that usually not plastic dowels are inserted into such holes, but wooden chopsticks or full-fledged bolt anchors.

It is, of course, possible to drill concrete in this way, but a lot of effort is expended - it is better to run to a familiar neighbor for a cordless drill.

Now about drills. An electric drill (you need to forget about manual in the case of concrete - it will take more force than the above-described masochism) needs a drill. For concrete, ordinary drills made of high-speed steel are not suitable: it is also an abrasive, on which they will be rubbed off, and even burn out from friction if they are not cooled.

Therefore, in the store you need to buy a tool with a carbide insert. Just do not steal from the VK-8 factory - they do not tolerate vibration. Often such drills are not sharpened - a green circle is required to sharpen a carbide tool. Diamond drill bits are also suitable. But this layer is thin and they will fail quickly. If a shock mode mechanism is included in the design of the drill, it must be used: cement is passed without problems, but granite must be broken.

If there is no shock mode, you can do without it: for dowels up to 40-50 mm long, a hole, as a rule, is drilled without problems. Here, at longer distances, there is a high probability of meeting with a granite "asteroid". It can be broken with a hand punch, feeling like Bruce Willis. And then - again work with a drill. But now purely unstressed electric drills are a rarity.

In general, the best tool for drilling concrete is a hammer drill. It is more powerful than a drill, its drills are specially designed for the vibration mode of operation - it is better to use it. This type of tool was created when home craftsmen did not yet think about how to drill a concrete wall - miners used punchers, and strong rocks are found there. Previously, punchers looked intimidating, but times are changing - now home-sized models have been developed. Perforator advantages:

The impact energy is an order of magnitude higher than that of an impact drill.

  • More powerful engine.
  • Vibration-resistant design - the shock mode of operation is the main one for it, and not an additional one, like with drills.

The design of the chuck and shank of the mortising tool eliminates turning under high loads - in the case of cam chucks, which are used in drills, you often have to make flats on the drill shank.

The grooving tool is specially adapted to work in vibration conditions - the carbide plate still does not like them and crumbles.

Outcome

A manual punch should only be used in absolutely wild working conditions - when there is no alternative. And also for auxiliary operations when drilling deep holes with a hammerless drill.

The hammerless drill is great for lightweight concrete and drilling shallow holes. For heavier work, you need a tool with a percussion mechanism. And even then - a hole with a diameter of more than 12-14 mm is already difficult to drill with a drill: the drill turns in the chuck, and the load becomes high.

A hammer drill is a great tool for drilling concrete walls because it's designed to work with these materials. But, of course, more expensive than drills - the price difference for models of the same category is almost twofold.

Wizard's advice

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Your repairman.  Finishing work, exterior, preparatory